Off to Bergen and the Western Coast of Norway

23 May 2022.

We awoke to a light rain; nothing serious just slightly annoying. Rumor online is there is rain in our future as we plan to head to the west coast of Norway. But head west we must.

This morning we slept in (again). Our train doesn't leave Flåm for Myrdal until 11:30 so we had plenty of time to finish packing, having coffee and a bite of breakfast before the next leg of our journey.  

It was a quiet morning in Flåm. 

We checked out of the hotel a little before 11:00 and walked to the visitor center/train station where we awaited the Flåmsbana to Myrdal. There were far fewer people on the trip back to Myrdal than came down with us on Saturday. That comes as no surprise since many travelers use Flåm as a transit point and, once off the train, often move on via bus or boat. There is really little here except the quiet of the fjord - something we've come to appreciate.

The train pulled in on time and left on time. 

The journey back up was just as incredible as the journey down last Saturday. We certainly did not tire of the views. . .

note the hairpins turns, part of the old construction road, now a biking and hiking path

Like the trip down, the train stopped at the Kjosfossen Falls allowing all who chose to do so to get out and take photos. The mist from the falls lightly sprayed everyone on the platform and this time we both thought the falls were unusually dramatic. 

While we all standing on the viewing platform some haunting music started and we could see a blonde woman in red dancing on the rock by the ruins on the center right of the photos. None of us expected this so I only got a quick clip but you get the point. It was, like the falls themselves, wonderfully dramatic!

The typical 5 minute photo-op stopping time was a bit longer than usual so as to enjoy the woman-in- red performance.

The train eventually started off and before long we pulled into Myrdal station. Most of the passengers were connecting with the Bergen train already at the station. Susie and I went inside the warm cafe, found a table to settle and had our sandwiches with a cold beer. At one point we could've sworn we saw snowflakes.

The cafe and indeed the little station remained empty but for two or three others awaiting a connection somewhere. Soon the train from Oslo pulled in and, like our train last Saturday, a large number of people disembarked and flooded the cafe and station waiting area with their luggage in search of something to eat and drink. But before long they left aboard the next Flåmsbana down to Flåm. The cycle of tourism is alive and well in Norway.

Our train arrived on time. We found our car and our seats. The first thing we noticed was we were the only passengers in the car. This remained a constant until we reached Voss about an hour or so into the trip. The trip would take us about about 2 hours 15 minutes. I texted our host to let him know we were on board and on time. 

The train from Myrdal took us through stunning scenery, first along frozen lakes dotted with small homes, then along raging rivers that seemed to roil forever downward. For the first hour or so we were treated to more breathtaking views of Norwegian nature.

Eventually civilization took over and at the various stops along the way humanity trickled on and off the train until we reached the lovely little station at Bergen. As our train came to a stop I checked email and since it was raining our host asked if we would like him to come and pick us up at the station! Of course we said yes. We had no sooner walked out of the station than he pulled up. A few minutes later we were at the apartment and settled in.

For more details on our apartment in bergen: https://abnb.me/jtjO5pi4dpb

After our host left we unpacked a few things, grabbed the umbrella and headed out to find the grocery store and wine shop (remember only state-owned stores can sell wine and spirits). Bergen is an incredibly manageable city on foot. Within just a few minutes we found the wine shop and on our way back in the direction of the apartment came across one of the two grocery stores recommended by our host.

That evening I fixed a simple meal of broccoli and potatoes (a staple it seems).

Tomorrow laundry and explore Bergen, in that order!

Flåm and the fjords

21 May 2022.

The day began with a light rain. We had coffee, showered, finished packing up and left the apartment pretty much the way we found it. It was a short walk to the central station and, it being a Saturday, few people were out yet. We had a bit of a wait for our train so we sat and had a coffee.

Once our train came up on the departure board and we confirmed what the railway's app told me, we headed down to track no. 3. One of the reasons we believe Oslo has the best train station so far is the tracks are easily found and they have no stairs - just gentle, sloping ramps flanking an up escalator for each and every platform. Very civilized.

Waiting to board we heard quite a few English-speakers, most of who were undoubtedly North Americans. Some of them we would continue to see off and on throughout the day.

The train left on time and since our car was far from being full we could hop from side to side to check out the best viewing point for what was one of the most amazing train rides we've ever experienced.

After we were well out of Oslo the train rose in altitude and soon we were passing along some stunning river valleys. But that was just the beginning. Before long we climbed past the timberline and the landscape took on an almost surreal appearance: Snow-covered rocky crags, blue-ice-covered lakes and ponds, the occasional house in the middle of nowhere. It was simply stunning. 

For much of the last hour or two it was nearly whiteout conditions; it was almost impossible to see where the hills ended and the sky began. 

At Finse we reached the highest point on the line at 1222 meters above sea level. (To put this in perspective, our destination for the day, Flåm was at 2 meters above sea level.)

Although the train was going on to Bergen, many of the passengers joined us in getting off at a small, isolated railway station at Myrdal. Here's where we would pick up our next train, the world-famous Flåmsbana. This train would take us 20 kilometers in about an hour down the valley to Flåm at the head of the Aurlandsfjord.

Myrdal station

waiting for our connection

aboard the Flåmsbana

a stop for photos

Arriving in Flåm we made our way first to the visitor center in the train station and then on to our hotel the Flåmsbrygga to check in.

we ended up with a very nice corner room and a view of the fjord!

That evening we strolled about. The town itself is quite small but is a key transportation junction for busses and ferries, not to mention a link on an important biking and hiking path as well. The quiet beauty of the environment was in stark contrast to the urban worlds we've been experiencing so far. A pleasant change for sure.

 

the hotel, our room far upper right

from the ferry dock looking toward a cattle farm on the hill

view down the fjord

across the fjord to a roadway around the mountains

north up the fjord from town

from part of the ferry dock to the town

a small river runs past the town into the head of the fjord

on the other side of the river from town

We had supper in one of the hotel's dining venues, which also happened to be a brewery. Naturally we had one of the local products with dinner (a German lager-style, if you must know). Susie had the chickpea burger and I had a fried chicken sandwich. We skipped the Viking five-course dinner paired with five beers. . . 

A simply wonderful day. We were both struck by the grandeur of the things we have seen today. We have seen the fun of Norway, the culture of Norway and much of the history of Norway.  Today we experienced the beauty of Norway up close. 

And there's more to come tomorrow as we sail on one of Norway's electric boats down the Aurlandsfjord and then up the Nærøyfjord to Gudvangen!