Lisbon to Porto by train

I purchased tickets a couple of months earlier in hand (and on our phones) ready and waiting. Since we will only be taking two trains this trip (from Lisbon Oriente station to Porto Campanha station and back to Lisbon) we opted for point-to-point instead of rail passes.


Although the Man in Seat 61 recommends Omio we used the official Portuguese train website (cp.pt), which he also suggested. Like The Man said it was a bit clunky but worked fine.  Oh, and don't try to create an account unless your a Portuguese national. 

Anyway, after a few quick screens we downloaded our 1st class tickets on one of the high-speed Alfa Pendular train. As some of you know we always choose 1st class on trains; the cost is usually not much more than 2nd class and you get better access to luggage storage on board and more seating space, both of which are much appreciated by travelers in their golden years.

The trip will take less than 3 hours (each way) and costs €180 for the two of us roundtrip. Not bad.

And if you're really interested in train travel in Portugal here's a map of their rail network.

I should say that as things turned out the trains running north from Lisbon (and south from Porto) were all cancelled while we were on our trip in early February of 2026. This was due to the severe storm that blew threw the country with incredibly high winds creating a large swath of destruction and damage particularly between Coimbro and Fatima. As a result we (and many others) were forced to take the buses back and forth.

Portugal 2026

Getting around: Public transport is generally good, especially in large cities like Lisbon and Porto, although we learned that some transport systems operate independently of one another so don't expect to find one card fits all. There is a Porto Card but I believe that also includes a number of (discounted) entrances to museums, etc so you will pay a premium for that.

We found that one of the best ways to get around both cities is either an Uber or Taxi; they are both inexpensive, reliable and prolific (especially Uber).

Bus services outside the cities are reputed to be reliable and inexpensive but we simply don't have any personal experience in that. We used the Rede Expressos bus from Lisbon to Porto and back and it didn't didn't take much longer than the high-speed Alfa Pendular - and it was much less expensive.

It should be pointed out that since the funicular accident in  Lisbon a few months back, all the other funiculars and elevators in the city are shut down. We were informed that since they all use the same (old) cable system they will not reopen until the problem that caused the accident is discovered and the other systems repaired if necessary.

Communication: Smartphones are absolutely necessary but here the key word is "absolutely." We have been using our phones almost exclusively for transport and other tickets for several years now, but in Portugal -- so far - they still rely on lots of paper.  The Porto Card seems popular for travelers but again we have no experience with that and don't know if it is available electronically.

Oh, and please learn how to say hello, goodbye, thank you, and please. Most Portuguese we encountered spoke pretty good English but hey it's their country. We should give their language a try. It goes a long way.

Accommodation: We used air BnB in Lisbon and Hilton hotels in Porto and Lisbon. Our accommodations were very nice and both centrally located, especially the apartment in Lisbon. The Cenica hotel in Porto was wonderful - we give it a big thumbs up - with an indoor pool, jacuzzi and breakfast available for an extra fee of course, unless you are a member of the Hilton Honors program. And the staff were in a word incredible. Our Hilton hotel in Lisbon, the Doubletree Fontana Park property, we give a thumbs down for reasons which I enumerated in my final travel journal entry.

Eating: We ate quite a bit of Portuguese food, which can be a bit heavy. Lots of potatoes and fish of course so you have plenty of options. Generally VERY reasonably priced too!

Sights: In winter some sights close down for refurbishment or remodeling during low season. You might want to check with the local Tourist Information office in either city before venturing off on your own. 

Speaking of Tourist Offices - make sure you find yourselves inside the OFFICIAL tourist office. In Porto especially there are offices that list themselves as Tourist Services with a large "i" out front -- these offices are usually in red. These are for-profit.

People: Wonderful, friendly and always willing to help. Often the four of us would be standing on the street looking at a map or a phone and a local would come up and ask if she or he could help. I'm sure they have their share of jerks, but most everyone we met were pleasant and kind to us.

Go or not? Absolutely.  If you go on your own I would recommend staying for at least a week in each city. Get to know it, the feel of it, get to know your way around it. 

Day 12 in Portugal

Thursday-Friday 5-6 February 

We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast in the hotel with Richard and Pauline. While the staff of the hotel were incredibly friendly and yet very professional, we had gotten to know rather well a young woman on the breakfast staff. She was always there early every morning, always smiling, friendly, willing to help and was professional in the bargain. She even sang Happy Birthday in Portuguese to Richard! Catarina is her name so if you have breakfast at the hotel ask for her.  

Afterwards our friends went out to explore parts of Porto unseen by us, while Susie and I prepared to leave for Lisbon. We were pretty much all put together last night and had to tweak a few of the packing cubes this morning. We had a midafternoon bus so we hung around the hotel and caught up with Richard and Pauline one more time before we had one more round of hugs and said our goodbyes. 

The Uber to the bus station was quick and smooth and it was our first time with a female Uber driver. Anyway, we had to wait for just a short while before our bus left for Lisbon. The trip back south was uneventful except for passing through a couple of torrential rain storms, which had apparently caused one car to flip over. We saw lots of flooding in the lowlands and of course much damage to whole swaths of trees caused by the recent wind storm. 

Once we got to Lisbon Oriente train station -- where we had previously picked up our bus for Porto - we grabbed a taxi to our hotel. It was rush hour and  15 minute trip took 45 with occasional drizzle (outside the car not inside). 

Walking into the hotel we made our way across a black barrenness; the floor was glossy black stone and reflected the lights from the ceiling which made it appear that you were looking through glass through the floor. The lobby had no sitting furniture and it was dimly lit. 

Anyway, we took the elevator to our floor and were straightaway struck by how much the hallway looked like a prison. 


The room itself was goofy.  The bathroom was walled off by black glass although some of the panels were clear so you could see right through from the larger portion of the room right into the bathroom! Weird.  

But we enjoyed a glass of wine in the bar, and ate a light meal before turning in, having an early call Friday.

The next morning we took a taxi to the airport -- a 15-minute ride -- and began the very long process of returning to the United States.

Lisbon airport is, in a word, a mess. They are poorly organized, poorly signed and a maze of general confusion. We checked in and made our way through security -- one of seemingly a half dozen times we would go through security on this trip.

But our flight to Newark was uneventful and as usual the food nearly inedible. There was a nice and quite friendly young man sitting at the window seat in our row, next to Susan, with whom we had a long and very warm conversation. That went a long way to helping the time pass!

Arriving in Newark we had to pass through passport control, pick our bags up and then recheck them -- something that makes no sense to us although it went smoothly. But it was finding how to get to our connecting flight that was a puzzle. We finally asked a policeman and then a airport staff member for directions and then made our way through security once again for our connecting flight to Grand Rapids. 

Truth be told we were in no rush. We had (hold for it) an 8-hour layover and so we cooled our heels. We did have a light, exorbitantly priced lunch - whipped feta with cucumber and pita for Susie and roasted Brussel sprouts for me, along with a small glass of beer for each of us. 

After hanging around the bar, which was comfortable I must say, we made our way to the gate. Here's where the fun began. Our boarding passes from Lisbon listed gate 72 but my United app said 111. So off to gate 111. After a while our gate changed to 81, then 80, then 86, and finally I got a text from United saying our gate was 135. Fortunately all of these were in the same terminal, and frankly we didn't mind the exercise so much. But the airline's confusion remains puzzling.

We boarded on time although the plane had to be deiced before we could depart. We usually travel in warmer months so we had never seen this before. Anyway, we both agreed it was quite fascinating to watch how they bring up two large trucks one on either side of the plane and spray the plane down. Whatever they did worked and we made it right on schedule to Grand Rapids.

Our friend and neighbor Don Trap was there to meet us, braving the late night cold and we were home by a little after midnight and in bed by 0100. We had been up for nearly 24 hours and had eaten little. On top of it somewhere along the travel line I picked up a cold or some sort of European bug, which seems to single me out. . .  


Day 11 in Portugal

Wednesday 4 February

Breakfast once again at the hotel of course (it's part of the deal), but really it is quite a robust buffet with a wide variety of items to choose from. The four of us then took an Uber down to the riverfront, specifically to the church of Sao Francisco where we could board the beginning of the No. 1 tram which would take us close to the Atlantic Ocean. 

We waited just a few minutes before the no. 1 lumbered into view. After disgorging the few passengers on board it reversed direction and allowed a new wave of sightseers to get on - including us naturally.

trying to figure out when the next tram will arrive


Similar to the old trams (also known as trolleys) in Lisbon that have become iconic for the city, this one certainly lived up to its reputation as being vintage: nearly everything on board was old and in sore need of refurbishment. Not like some of us I suppose. (If you want to know more about these trolleys, or streetcars as they were known earlier, visit the Market Street Railway online.)


rattan seats



arriving at the terminus, the tram is quite the star it would seem
Anyway, it was a lovely ride along the river all the way to  the Atlantic. The line ended at the Jardim de Passeio Alegre in the Foz de Douro district. 

There were few people out along the oceanfront, the occasional runner and serious walker and a handful of tourists like us. We soon reached a point that was cordoned off undoubtedly due to the high winds and waves, the latter making quite an impression on us. And of course Portugal is still in the midst of a severe coastal warning as I write. 

very nice promenade close to where the Douro empties into the ocean

looking back upriver you can see the tram at its terminus on the left in the distance


the open ocean

not many folks out and about

WCs in the park -- a handy feature

the barriers preventing access to the beach

Next to the barriers at a point where we couldn't walk on any farther was this seemingly empty and abandoned building.


The sign above the entryway reads Camara Municipal do Porto which translates as City Council of Porto.


But if you search online for that phrase you get this building: my how things have changed.


Our next objective for today was the Serralves Foundation Contemporary Art Museum and Park. The museum held little interest for us but the park sounded very nice. From the ocean front it was a bit of a hike and all uphill so we took an Uber which dropped us off right outside the main entrance. 

Once we walked onto the grounds we were all struck by the very angular and cold architecture of the buildings. 

the freestanding gift shop at the park entrance (left)

to the museum entrance



And inside we were equally struck by the open and empty spaces, also angular and rather cold. 

interior second floor (1st floor European)

But first things first and that meant lunch. We walked upstairs to the museum restaurant which had a nice view of the park below. It had just opened for service and we were the first to arrive. The layout was simple: an open buffet for a set price and then drinks. Period. The spread had a very nice look to it and the food was delicious.






After lunch we bought tickets to the outdoor sculpture park, deciding to skip the museum inside. Here we were reminded of the Meijer sculpture gardens in Grand Rapids.

beginning of the walk around the park

Plantoir by Oldenburg and Van Bruggen

Plantoir and  The Curious Vortex

The Curious Vortex by Olafur Eliasson



Unfortunately the powder puff pink Art Deco villa was closed for renovations.






The Teahouse and Tennis court, closed for the season apparently

Near the Teahouse I met Gil and his Harris Hawk named Tawny. The park hires a company to bring their hawks to discourage the seagulls. Gil told me that Tawny was in training at the moment but had great prospects. Anyway, the company he works for has seven hawks and perform their service all over the city.


A few minutes walk on and up a flight of series of stair cases found us admiring the views of the lower levels of the park - creative, imaginative and very informative with the occasional signage talking about the trees, the birds etc.



Soon we found ourselves strolling on the treetop walk. 








From the treetop walk we made our way back to the entrance and ordered an Uber which returned us to the trolley terminus just in time for the next one (they run about every 20-30 minutes) heading back into the city. 

Leaving the trolley we walked up to the nearby River Market. A gorgeous 19th century red metal structure, it once held an indoor market for the locals. As we soon discovered it is now a venue for casual drinks, music and the occasional artisans market which was then underway. We all thought the space a bit disappointing compared to the markets we have seen in Italy and France where they are well utilized for food, meats, produce, household goods, clothing etc.

There is a nice view of the small park that is home to a superb statue commemorating Prince Henry the Navigator. 

Market building

Looking down to the statue and the river

inside the market hall


rather empty today

We walked back down the hill to the trolley stop to meet up with an Uber back to the hotel. It was time for a bit of rest and relaxation before dinner.

The four of us met back in the hotel lobby about 6:30 and walked across the street and down a half block hoping to find Monteen,  our dinner venue for the evening. We found it easily but . . . it was dark and temporarily closed. Not wishing to continue strolling around looking for a place to eat we returned to the hotel for a lovely last evening meal together.

The food was delicious but, as always, it was the conversation that was both lively and warm. We didn't say our goodbyes just yet though. We will meet one last time for breakfast Thursday morning before we head for the bus station and Lisbon.  Richard and Pauline will spend one more day in Porto before they fly home to England on Friday and we fly home to the US. 


Lisbon to Porto by train

I purchased tickets a couple of months earlier in hand (and on our phones) ready and waiting. Since we will only be taking two trains this t...