A Sunday in New England

Sunday, June 7.

Another beautiful day in Massachusetts. And a good day for a drive (back) to Rhode Island.

After a leisurely breakfast (after coffee in bed for some) the four of us headed south to Providence. The plan today was pretty simple: meet up with our friends Andrea and her mom Barbara for brunch at Bayberry Garden. We had eaten there with the same crew last summer and thought the food very good; we also enjoyed the open kitchen and wonderful airy space. Parking was the singular concern this morning but fortunately we found a convenient spot just a couple of blocks from the restaurant. 


It was interesting to be back in my old haunts near Davol Square (look it up) where I worked for some years for Johnson & Wales University. In fact, I used to walk to this neighborhood from our home on Westminster Street. 

We enjoyed another delicious meal while catching up with each other's lives. Oh, and I had the Shakshuka again thank you very much: 

A grand time was had by all.

l-r: Barbara, Dor, Susie, Dick, and Andrea and me

After saying adieu to our friends we made our way to Irregardless (not a spelling error) to pick up biscuits for tomorrow morning. (They ONLY do biscuits.) But really it was to see Joe Hafner, one of the co-owners. Joe and Susan worked together at Gracie's in Providence a lifetime ago. She was the pastry chef and he the executive chef. He hadn't changed much and was still the same ebullient, upbeat guy we had known for so many years. Gracie's was such a defining time for Susie and I suspect for him as well.

yep that's the biscuit place on the right

Susie and Joe



We made a quick stop at Whole Foods to drop an Amazon return off and then it was back to Douglas to relax until supper time.

A large part of the reason for this trip was to connect with family and friends and so far we've been hitting all cylinders. And this evening we were joined by niece Mallory and her dad Steele for dinner, another lovely home-cooked meal followed by lots of warm and lively conversation catching up with people we see far too infrequently.

Susie, Mallory, Steele, Dor, and Dick

After seeing Mallory and Steele off into the night the four of us chatted for a bit before bed. 

Tomorrow it's off to Maine for us to see more family!


Douglas, MA and the family portion

Friday-Saturday, June 5-6. 

Family, friends and food. That pretty much sums up our time back in New England. 

The trip from Gettysburg to Dick and Dorothy's home in Douglas, MA, took us about 7 hours of (mostly) interstate highway driving. The trip was uneventful -- always a plus -- and the first two or three hours took us through more stunning Pennsylvania scenery. Susan and I have driven through the Keystone State many times but I can't recall being so struck by the luscious scenery and often dramatic vistas we were treated to this time.

Anyway, we arrived late afternoon and spent a lovely evening sipping chilled sparkling wine on their patio before another of Dor's scrumptious meals (stuffed shells à la Cathy Van Halsema).

We eased into Saturday morning with coffee and a light breakfast before heading out to Rhode Island for lunch. It has become a tradition of sorts for the four of us have lunch at the Matunuck Oyster Bar. Even though they are still in the construction phase of rebuilding after their fire of over a year ago they still pack 'em in and Dick had the foresight to make reservations. Anyway, the temporary tent system works fine and is close to the water which made the air inside cool and comfortable.

temporary quarters


Susan had a salad with grilled chicken and Dor had her favorite: lobster roll

Dick had three "stuffies" - stuffed Quahog clams 

I had a scrumptious clam chowder with a a glass of Alagash ale

Note in the photo above the Westminster Crackers. They're made in Rutland, VT where we lived for nearly a dozen years. Curiously enough we lived on Westminster Street in providence for eight years. 

After a leisurely lunch -- leisurely as some of you have discerned from many previous posts -- is how we like to travel. I suppose that explains why even when we travel to Europe we like to be independent, on our own schedule and not at the whim of someone else.

Anyway, from Matunuck and Rhode Island we crossed over into Connecticut. Dick drove us through a number of quintessential New England villages through the countryside as we made our way to Priam Vineyards. Part of the Connecticut Wine Trail, Priam is perched on a lovely bluff and provides outdoor and indoor seating. 


Dick and Dorothy choose a local chardonnay and Susie and I split a very generous four-wine flight  of local whites (including one rosé) -- which we thought just OK. We sat outside enjoying the sun, interessting conversation with table "neighbors" and very nice live acoustic guitar music.

From the vineyard we made our way to the town of Wethersfield in Connecticut where we were to meet up with the MacDonalds at Lucky Lou's Bar and Grill. Unfortunately Glen was under the weather but we were joined by niece Christina and daughter Kiera.



I had a delicious lamb gyro with potatoes (as did Christina), Susie had a chicken gyro, Kiera pasta and Dick and Dorothy each had a salad.

The food was tasty, the beer cold, the conversation warm and lovely. 

After dinner the six of us strolled around the village before saying our goodbyes. We had no sooner returned to our cars than a terrific wind, rain and thunderstorm pelted us as we left town. Whew talk about timing.

All-in-all a lovely day meandering through rolling hills, reconnecting with family, enjoying good food and fellowship. 

Tomorrow we return to Providence for lunch with friends Andrea and her mom Barbara and dinner at Dick and Dorothy's tomorrow night with niece Mallory and her dad Steele.

Keep travelin'!!


Gettysburg National Battlefield Park

Thursday, June 4.

Today we focused our attention on exploring the Battlefield. 

According to the Gettysburg Foundation, the Park comprises nearly 6,000 acres and includes some 1,300 monuments, most of which were originally laid out by the veterans themselves. More soldiers were killed during the battle  than in any  other battle on American soil before or since. All this makes Gettysburg one of the most unique battlefields in the world. . . 

After a mediocre breakfast at the hotel we set off for the park visitor center where we picked up a map for the park's suggested auto tour. Consisting of 15 stops along a 24-mile plan the driving tour covers the battle from July 1-3, 1863 chronologically while also providing ample opportunities for stopping and exploring specific aspects of the battle in greater detail.


I won't bore you with the details of each and every stop; as with the Flight 93 memorial I'll let the photos speak for themselves and hopefully give the folks who have never been to Gettysburg an idea of how special this place is. And for you who have been to this incredible slice of our country's history think about going back sooner than later. Life is short.

Anyway, if you want an extensive list of each Gettysburg monument, its respective photo and details  you can find more information right here. You can also download a large version of the tour map as well as a short guide to the park on the NPS website right here.

entrance to the visitor center - opened in 2008

two of my favorite people

The first stop on the driving tour was Reynolds Woods where Union General John Reynolds was shot and killed in the open hours of the battle on July 1.



the view along Reynolds Avenue

The next stop was at the Eternal Light Peace Memorial. Established in 1938 it commemorates the 75th reunion of the Gettysburg veterans and to "a nation united." 


From the Peace Memorial it was a short drive to the Oak Ridge observation tower.


We then made our way to Barlow Knoll. Named after Union General Francis Barlow this site is located on the grounds of what was then the Gettysburg alms house complex. All that remains today is the Old Alms House cemetery, which is not part of the Park.



Francis Barlow statue

The auto tour soon lead us along the confederate lines west of town where the number of monuments is fewer than on the Union side. However some of the individual state monuments are wonderful works of art - Mississippi, North Carolina and the massive Virginia memorial to name just a few. 

Mississippi

North Carolina

Virginia with General Lee atop Traveler

note the small sign warning about defacement of the monument

We stopped for a light picnic lunch in Pitzer Woods where the Longstreet Memorial is located. Although we are fervent Unionists and loathe the secessionists generally, one has to be softened somewhat by the monument to this man. Captured in mid-stride, perhaps realizing how things were not going well for the confederates, he is caught thinking about what to do next.


Susan's favorite statue

The auto tour took us past the striking monument dedicated to William Wells and the 1st Vermont Cavalry.



From the 1st Vermont Cavalry monument it was a short drive to another of the most important stops on the tour: Little Round Top. The views of the battlefield from here, especially of Devils Den, the Wheatfield and Peach Orchard beyond, are grand indeed.


the rocky outcropping is Devils Den


We left Little Round top and drove down past the Wheatfield where the 5th Michigan Infantry was heavily engaged, and skirted the Peach Orchard. 

the 5th Michigan monument in the Wheatfield

monument to the 88th New York, part of the Irish Brigade

We eventually left the central portion of the battlefield and drove along the tour to Spangler's Spring and the observation tower on Culp's Hill skirting Evergreen Cemetery making our way back to the final phase of the battle: Pickett's Charge and the Copse of Trees.  Also known as the High Tide of the Confederacy the war took it's final turn against the South right here. This sacred space has always been protected by an iron fence, which harks back to a much earlier time.

Copse of Trees


the 69th Pennsylvania

the Copse of trees seen from the Confederate viewpoint

After the tour we drove into downtown Gettysburg and found a handy enclosed parking garage (out of the sun was a bonus). After strolling for a short while we stopped at Lulu's for an ice cream (not the finest thank you very much). We had to pop into a nearby store called the Chocolate Market. They did indeed market lots of different chocolates and for those of you keen on such things, it's connected directly to the year-round Christmas shop right next door.



It was time for a a little down time so we made our way back to the car and back to the hotel. 

After relaxing for a couple of hours we returned to the center of town and the parking garage (we think this is the only one in town), which is located behind the Hotel Gettysburg.  Just outside the entrance to the garage Susan spied a couple of historical markers. It turns out the garage is on the location of the home of John Getty, yep the founder of Gettysburg. Next to the marker was a boulder memorializing the very spot where the first company of local troops were enlisted in 1775 to join Washington's fledgling army. 




From the garage we walked through the Hotel Gettysburg back to the center of town and stopped briefly in a couple of shops. It was then on to find a place to eat. Unimpressed by a number of places we looked at -- the menus all seemed to favor the same sort of food it seemed to us -- we opted to return to the Sign of the Buck but this time chose the tavern side of the hotel. (The restaurant and tavern are connected to the Union Hotel.)

So we bellied up to the bar and spent a couple of wonderful hours chatting with other patrons and swapping mixology stories with the bartender. (If you go, ask for Angela.)

Our cocktails were refreshing and tasty and the food delicious -- small plates consisting of deviled eggs, house-cut fries with three different dipping sauces, followed by bowls of Tuscan bean soup. 




It was a grand way to end a lovely day -- wish you had been there!

Tomorrow we head off for the family portion of our trip back East: first stop Dick and Dorothy's in Douglas, MA for three nights before heading to Maine to see Susan's sister Joyce and her husband Avery.

Stay tuned!

A Sunday in New England

Sunday, June 7. Another beautiful day in Massachusetts. And a good day for a drive (back) to Rhode Island. After a leisurely breakfast (afte...