Keweenaw Peninsula

September 22.

A very leisurely morning in L'Anse. After breakfast, coffee and then a shower and getting dressed (important for traveling among strangers) we headed into town in search of a market. While we had planned for and were all set for food, our house's water system produces a very noticeable and somewhat unpleasant odor of rusty iron (although it doesn't taste like the old well water I remember as a kid). We soon found Pat's Foods and stocked up on water for the duration.

From Pat's Foods it was back onto Route 41 heading north. We zipped around the bottom of Keweenaw Bay then up through Baraga, Chassell and the twin cities of Houghton and Hancock. Separated by a dramatic looking lift bridge across the Portage River, Houghton is the home of Michigan Technological University and Hancock the home of Finlandia College. That's right, for those of you not in the know, this part of Michigan was settled by a lot of Finns in 19th century and it still shows in the names of villages and even people running for office today.

Leaving the twin cities we made our way up Route 41, the central artery of the Keweenaw. At Allouez we turned east in the direction of Gay and the eastern shore. Naturally we got lost. After asking directions from one of the rare human beings we passed along the way we found our way to Gay and a lovely drive up the eastern shore. We stopped at Brunette Park and Point Isabelle before turning back inland skirting Lac La Belle and back to Route 41.

Brunette Park

rocks rich in iron

Susie on the hunt for interesting stones

Susie continues the diligent search for stones

It was a short drive to Copper Harbor where we stopped for lunch at the Mariner. Copper Harbor is not quite the tip of the Keweenaw but close enough for us. And we were comforted by the fact it is the northernmost city of Michigan.

From Copper Harbor we took Route 26 heading south but quickly turned off onto the Brockway Mountain Drive. Definitely one of the high points of our day, literally and metaphorically. We enjoyed sweeping views from several turnouts.

view of Copper Harbor

colors starting to change, lots of reds abound

from West Bluff

the West Bluff overlook is the highest point on the drive

After making our way back to Route 26 we zipped into Eagle River and checked out the village's main attraction, a lighthouse. It was closed but we chatted with a couple of lovely staff folk working the nearby museum and gift shop, Peter and Amy. Worth the stop just for those conversations alone. Friendly, funny and committed to the UP way of life. The town also had a lovely spacious sandy beach.

From Eagle River we continued on Rt 26 to Eagle Harbor (another nice sandy beach) and then to route 41. Retracing our earlier ride north we headed south and home for supper and relaxing by the lake.

It had been a perfect a day for traveling up and down the Keweenaw: The sky was blue, the air crisp and clear, the water lovely to look upon just about everywhere. Wish you could've been here.

Tomorrow we hope to explore a bit of Houghton and maybe Hancock as well. We have tickets and signed waivers for the Quincy Mine tour and we're excited to see what all the fuss has been about copper!

Richard and Pauline's Portugal notes

[For anyone reading this journal you know that we met up with our British friends Richard and Pauline in Porto,  31 January to 6 February 2026. What you might not know is that while we had to leave on February 5 to return to Lisbon they remained in Porto for an extra day. And so, here are a few of their photos as well as Richard's detailed travel notes to finish out the trip. It's always fascinating to view your trip from the perspective of someone who was right there with you the entire time.]

Our friends Steve and Susan were keen to escape severe winter weather in Grand Rapids, Michigan.  They had not visited Portugal before.  They flew to Lisbon on 24 January 2026 and enjoyed six days there, including one when they were entertained by [Richard and Pauline's friend] Graça.  On 31 January they travelled to Porto, to join us there for five days.  They had planned to make the journey by rail, but severe storms in central Portugal prevented all train services between Lisbon and Porto, so they had to come by bus, although in fact their journey time was little different.

Saturday 31 January

2.  Meanwhile, in St Albans we awoke at 6am to find an email and text from TAP Air Portugal saying that our 1010 flight was postponed to 1150!  so we went back to sleep until 7.15am.  We left Ellis Fields in our Vauxhall Astra at 8am, and had a smooth drive on M25 and M23 to reach Gatwick airport long-stay car park by 9.15am.  We had smooth passage through Security in the South Terminal although, inexplicably, both Pauline’s bags were side-lined for inspection.  Our plane took off at 12.15pm, after much queuing.  There was no word from the flight deck.  Cabin crew announcements were garbled/unintelligible.  We landed at 2pm.  Porto airport is huge!  A long walk to passport stamps, where we both had our finger-prints and photographs taken.  We took a taxi to Hilton’s Cenica Hotel in central Porto:  35 euros, including tip.

3.  While we were checking in, Steve and Susan appeared:  they had recently arrived. We have adjoining rooms: 306 (us) and 307 (them).  We unpacked, and then joined Steve and Susan in the bar for a welcome drink, courtesy of the hotel!  At 5pm we (not Steve and Susan) went for a swim in the hotel’s very good indoor pool, with adjacent jacuzzi!  At 6pm we all walked out and eventually found authentic Portuguese dinner (bacalau, francesinha) at Restaurant Salmao, where we were the only customers.

Sunday 1st February

4.  Breakfast (8.45am) was excellent.  A huge variety of food was constantly replenished by pleasant, friendly, efficient staff.  The coffee machines were the sole weak spot, but one of the waitresses was happy to make hot chocolate for Richard!  If the available bacon, sausages, scrambled egg, mushrooms and fried potato were not your fancy, a chef was on hand to cook you a boiled egg or an omelette to order!  At 10.15am we walked 5 minutes (in rain) to Trindade, the hub of the Metro system, and bought tickets to Jardim de Mooro, just south of the mighty river Douro, which the train line crosses at a great height on the impressive Ponte Dom Luis. From there we made our way on foot (in rain) to the World of Wine complex where, after coffee, we toured the Cork Museum and the Pink Palace (all about rose wine):  both were fascinating, and fun. Between these tours we had lunch in the WoW restaurant, with good view of Ponte Dom Luis, albeit often shrouded in cloud.  For dinner we enjoyed well-cooked burgers in the hotel restaurant.

Monday 2 February

5.  From Trindade we took the Metro north-west to Casa da Musica, an iconic concert hall opened in c2005.  The concrete structure didn’t look its best in the rain.  It turned out that unless we took a self-guided tour we couldn’t see the interior, and the restaurant wasn’t due to open for two hours.  So we left the building and admired the roundabout outside, which featured an impressive monument celebrating the victory of the Portuguese and British over Spain in the Peninsular War.  Next, we took an Uber to Se/the fortified Cathedral.  First (because it was due to close for lunch) we toured the Bishop’s Palace, which is pleasant and spacious and has superb views across the Douro and of the bridge.  The Cathedral itself is strange:  mostly plain and austere, but the east end is full of bling/gold leaf.  Outside we walked down 100+ steps and found lunch at an hotel near the river.  We walked west to the church of Sao Francisco, where we toured the church (extraordinary, entirely decorated in fantastic carving covered in gold leaf) and then the museum and catacombs.  Apparently, all burials were in churches until 1866, when the state decreed they should be in cemeteries. Back at the hotel we swam, and relaxed in the jacuzzi.  We joined Steve and Susan for aperitifs, and then walked 5 minutes to O Antunes restaurant, established in the 1980s, where we had bacalau and dorade in a very pleasant ambience.

Tuesday 3 February

6.  It was Richard’s 76th birthday.  We celebrated at breakfast with Buck’s Fizz, whereupon the lovely staff brought a mini birthday cake with candle, and our waitress Catarina sang “Happy Birthday” in Portuguese!  

What a start!  We walked in rain to the Art Nouveau Majestic Cafe for coffee, then took an Uber across the Douro to Graham’s Wine Lodge, an extensive set-up, where we enjoyed a tasting of three different ports, paired with cheese, chocolate and pastel de nata.  In the restaurant, Vinum, we had a tasty light lunch, with impressive view of Ponte Dom Luis and the roof-scape of Porto, in intermittent mist;  and the waiter brought Richard a platter of truffles to share, inscribed with “Happy Birthday”!  Returning to the hotel, we relaxed, went out for a short walk in incipient rain, and then joined Steve and Susan for aperitifs.  We walked in rain to O Antunes where Richard had a sirloin steak, beautifully cooked, and the others had salmon, pork and beef.  Richard’s cheesecake dessert came with a candle:  a truly celebratory day.

Wednesday 4 February

7.  An Uber took us to Sao Francisco, where the ancient No 1 Tram starts its 25-minute route westward.  We took it to its terminus, in sight of where the Douro meets the Atlantic Ocean, and we walked and admired the sheer daunting power of the waves crashing over the sea wall.  An Uber took us north to Serralves, where we had a good buffet lunch.  We toured the grounds, including the impressive Tree Top walk, the parterres, and the powder-puff pink villa (closed for re-decoration).  An Uber took us back to the tram terminus, and we took the tram to Sao Francisco.  Another Uber returned us to the hotel for swim and jacuzzi.  For dinner we repeated burgers in the hotel restaurant.

Thursday 5 February

8.  Steve and Susan spent the morning packing.  We walked to the restored Mercardo do Bolhau, off rua Fernandes Tomas, and admired a huge range of stalls selling, especially, high quality fruit, vegetables and flowers.  

Back at Cenica hotel we chatted with Steve and Susan until 1.15pm when they took an Uber to the bus station to return to Lisbon for their flights to Grand Rapids the next day.  We had lunch in the hotel restaurant.  We took the Metro from Trindade to Sao Bento, where we looked inside the old railway station and admired the wall tiles there.  We walked down rua dos Flores, intending to visit Palaccio de Bolsa.  But this can only be done by conducted tour, and the next one in English was nearly an hour away.  So Pauline took a photo of Prince Henry the Navigator, who was standing outside.  We walked sown to the Douro, and along to the Ponte Dom Luis, and across it!  in strong westerly wind competing with the full river swirling westward just below.  On the far side we climbed up to Jardim de Mooro and took the Metro back to Trindade.  Pauline’s pedometer showed that this day we had taken nearly 12,000 steps!  We had a quick swim and jacuzzi, and went out to dinner at Luffa, a few doors down from O Antunes.  A really tasty meal.

Friday 6 February

9.  After breakfast we packed, and checked out, leaving our bags at Reception.  We walked south down the length of Santa Catarina, then west to admire imposing buildings in Aliados, then north to near Trindade for coffee, and finally east to Mercardo Bolhau for lunch at Cafe de Gina’s:  vegetable soup, sardines, codfish, vegetable rice, cheesecake, sangria.  Back at Cenica we retrieved our bags and took the Metro from Trindade to the airport.  Our tickets cost 5.8 euros!  and the journey was barely 30 minutes, faster and far cheaper than the taxi.  Security and passport inspection were quick and efficient.  Our plane took off at 6.50pm, 30 minutes late, and landed at Gatwick a shade ahead of schedule at 8.35pm.  We were back at Ellis Fields by 10.50pm.  It was dry and clear,  8 degrees C.

Conclusion

10  Special words of appreciation for Steve.  First, he found the Cenica hotel, and indeed we enjoyed a special rate there thanks to his Hilton Honours membership.  It was a splendid hotel in every respect.  Secondly, Steve was willing and adept at summoning Uber taxis for at least ten journeys in and around Porto.

11.  Although the weather was often cool, cloudy and windy, and sometimes it rained, it was early February, so what d’you expect?  And the only activity that we couldn’t undertake was a cruise along the river Douro  -  from which all craft were banned, because of its height and fast-flowing.  If we return to Porto we will hope for a river cruise, and try harder to get inside Casa da Musica and Palaccio de Bolsa.

Portugal 2026

Getting around: Public transport is generally good, especially in large cities like Lisbon and Porto, although we learned that some transport systems operate independently of one another so don't expect to find one card fits all. There is a Porto Card but I believe that also includes a number of (discounted) entrances to museums, etc so you will pay a premium for that.

We found that one of the best ways to get around both cities is either an Uber or Taxi; they are both inexpensive, reliable and prolific (especially Uber).

Bus services outside the cities are reputed to be reliable and inexpensive but we simply don't have any personal experience in that. We used the Rede Expressos bus from Lisbon to Porto and back and it didn't didn't take much longer than the high-speed Alfa Pendular - and it was much less expensive.

It should be pointed out that since the funicular accident in  Lisbon a few months back, all the other funiculars and elevators in the city are shut down. We were informed that since they all use the same (old) cable system they will not reopen until the problem that caused the accident is discovered and the other systems repaired if necessary.

Communication: Smartphones are absolutely necessary but here the key word is "absolutely." We have been using our phones almost exclusively for transport and other tickets for several years now, but in Portugal -- so far - they still rely on lots of paper.  The Porto Card seems popular for travelers but again we have no experience with that and don't know if it is available electronically.

Oh, and please learn how to say hello, goodbye, thank you, and please. Most Portuguese we encountered spoke pretty good English but hey it's their country. We should give their language a try. It goes a long way.

Accommodation: We used air BnB in Lisbon and Hilton hotels in Porto and Lisbon. Our accommodations were very nice and both centrally located, especially the apartment in Lisbon. The Cenica hotel in Porto was wonderful - we give it a big thumbs up - with an indoor pool, jacuzzi and breakfast available for an extra fee of course, unless you are a member of the Hilton Honors program. And the staff were in a word incredible. Our Hilton hotel in Lisbon, the Doubletree Fontana Park property, we give a thumbs down for reasons which I enumerated in my final travel journal entry.

Eating: We ate quite a bit of Portuguese food, which can be a bit heavy. Lots of potatoes and fish of course so you have plenty of options. Generally VERY reasonably priced too!

Sights: In winter some sights close down for refurbishment or remodeling during low season. You might want to check with the local Tourist Information office in either city before venturing off on your own. 

Speaking of Tourist Offices - make sure you find yourselves inside the OFFICIAL tourist office. In Porto especially there are offices that list themselves as Tourist Services with a large "i" out front -- these offices are usually in red. These are for-profit.

People: Wonderful, friendly and always willing to help. Often the four of us would be standing on the street looking at a map or a phone and a local would come up and ask if she or he could help. I'm sure they have their share of jerks, but most everyone we met were pleasant and kind to us.

Go or not? Absolutely.  If you go on your own I would recommend staying for at least a week in each city. Get to know it, the feel of it, get to know your way around it. 

Day 11 in Portugal

Wednesday 4 February

Breakfast once again at the hotel of course (it's part of the deal), but really it is quite a robust buffet with a wide variety of items to choose from. The four of us then took an Uber down to the riverfront, specifically to the church of Sao Francisco where we could board the beginning of the No. 1 tram which would take us close to the Atlantic Ocean. 

We waited just a few minutes before the no. 1 lumbered into view. After disgorging the few passengers on board it reversed direction and allowed a new wave of sightseers to get on - including us naturally.

trying to figure out when the next tram will arrive

Similar to the old trams (also known as trolleys) in Lisbon that have become iconic for the city, this one certainly lived up to its reputation as being vintage: nearly everything on board was old and in sore need of refurbishment. Not like some of us I suppose. (If you want to know more about these trolleys, or streetcars as they were known earlier, visit the Market Street Railway online.)

rattan seats

arriving at the terminus, the tram is quite the star it would seem

Anyway, it was a lovely ride along the river all the way to  the Atlantic. The line ended at the Jardim de Passeio Alegre in the Foz de Douro district. 

There were few people out along the oceanfront, the occasional runner and serious walker and a handful of tourists like us. We soon reached a point that was cordoned off undoubtedly due to the high winds and waves, the latter making quite an impression on us. And of course Portugal is still in the midst of a severe coastal warning as I write. 

very nice promenade close to where the Douro empties into the ocean

looking back upriver you can see the tram at its terminus on the left in the distance

the open ocean

not many folks out and about

WCs in the park -- a handy feature

the barriers preventing access to the beach

Next to the barriers at a point where we couldn't walk on any farther was this seemingly empty and abandoned building.

The sign above the entryway reads Camara Municipal do Porto which translates as City Council of Porto.

But if you search online for that phrase you get this building: my how things have changed.

Our next objective for today was the Serralves Foundation Contemporary Art Museum and Park. The museum held little interest for us but the park sounded very nice. From the ocean front it was a bit of a hike and all uphill so we took an Uber which dropped us off right outside the main entrance. 

Once we walked onto the grounds we were all struck by the very angular and cold architecture of the buildings. 

the freestanding gift shop at the park entrance (left)

to the museum entrance

And inside we were equally struck by the open and empty spaces, also angular and rather cold. 

interior second floor (1st floor European)

But first things first and that meant lunch. We walked upstairs to the museum restaurant which had a nice view of the park below. It had just opened for service and we were the first to arrive. The layout was simple: an open buffet for a set price and then drinks. Period. The spread had a very nice look to it and the food was delicious.

After lunch we bought tickets to the outdoor sculpture park, deciding to skip the museum inside. Here we were reminded of the Meijer sculpture gardens in Grand Rapids.

beginning of the walk around the park

Plantoir by Oldenburg and Van Bruggen

Plantoir and  The Curious Vortex

The Curious Vortex by Olafur Eliasson

Unfortunately the powder puff pink Art Deco villa was closed for renovations.

The Teahouse and Tennis court, closed for the season apparently

Near the Teahouse I met Gil and his Harris Hawk named Tawny. The park hires a company to bring their hawks to discourage the seagulls. Gil told me that Tawny was in training at the moment but had great prospects. Anyway, the company he works for has seven hawks and perform their service all over the city.

A few minutes walk on and up a flight of series of stair cases found us admiring the views of the lower levels of the park - creative, imaginative and very informative with the occasional signage talking about the trees, the birds etc.

Soon we found ourselves strolling on the treetop walk. 

From the treetop walk we made our way back to the entrance and ordered an Uber which returned us to the trolley terminus just in time for the next one (they run about every 20-30 minutes) heading back into the city. 

Leaving the trolley we walked up to the nearby River Market. A gorgeous 19th century red metal structure, it once held an indoor market for the locals. As we soon discovered it is now a venue for casual drinks, music and the occasional artisans market which was then underway. We all thought the space a bit disappointing compared to the markets we have seen in Italy and France where they are well utilized for food, meats, produce, household goods, clothing etc.

There is a nice view of the small park that is home to a superb statue commemorating Prince Henry the Navigator. 

Market building

Looking down to the statue and the river

inside the market hall

rather empty today

We walked back down the hill to the trolley stop to meet up with an Uber back to the hotel. It was time for a bit of rest and relaxation before dinner.

The four of us met back in the hotel lobby about 6:30 and walked across the street and down a half block hoping to find Monteen,  our dinner venue for the evening. We found it easily but . . . it was dark and temporarily closed. Not wishing to continue strolling around looking for a place to eat we returned to the hotel for a lovely last evening meal together.

The food was delicious but, as always, it was the conversation that was both lively and warm. We didn't say our goodbyes just yet though. We will meet one last time for breakfast Thursday morning before we head for the bus station and Lisbon.  Richard and Pauline will spend one more day in Porto before they fly home to England on Friday and we fly home to the US.