Showing posts with label Flåm. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Flåm. Show all posts

Off to Bergen and the Western Coast of Norway

23 May 2022.

We awoke to a light rain; nothing serious just slightly annoying. Rumor online is there is rain in our future as we plan to head to the west coast of Norway. But head west we must.

This morning we slept in (again). Our train doesn't leave Flåm for Myrdal until 11:30 so we had plenty of time to finish packing, having coffee and a bite of breakfast before the next leg of our journey.  

It was a quiet morning in Flåm. 

We checked out of the hotel a little before 11:00 and walked to the visitor center/train station where we awaited the Flåmsbana to Myrdal. There were far fewer people on the trip back to Myrdal than came down with us on Saturday. That comes as no surprise since many travelers use Flåm as a transit point and, once off the train, often move on via bus or boat. There is really little here except the quiet of the fjord - something we've come to appreciate.

The train pulled in on time and left on time. 

The journey back up was just as incredible as the journey down last Saturday. We certainly did not tire of the views. . .



note the hairpins turns, part of the old construction road, now a biking and hiking path

Like the trip down, the train stopped at the Kjosfossen Falls allowing all who chose to do so to get out and take photos. The mist from the falls lightly sprayed everyone on the platform and this time we both thought the falls were unusually dramatic. 


While we all standing on the viewing platform some haunting music started and we could see a blonde woman in red dancing on the rock by the ruins on the center right of the photos. None of us expected this so I only got a quick clip but you get the point. It was, like the falls themselves, wonderfully dramatic!



The typical 5 minute photo-op stopping time was a bit longer than usual so as to enjoy the woman-in- red performance.

The train eventually started off and before long we pulled into Myrdal station. Most of the passengers were connecting with the Bergen train already at the station. Susie and I went inside the warm cafe, found a table to settle and had our sandwiches with a cold beer. At one point we could've sworn we saw snowflakes.


The cafe and indeed the little station remained empty but for two or three others awaiting a connection somewhere. Soon the train from Oslo pulled in and, like our train last Saturday, a large number of people disembarked and flooded the cafe and station waiting area with their luggage in search of something to eat and drink. But before long they left aboard the next Flåmsbana down to Flåm. The cycle of tourism is alive and well in Norway.

Our train arrived on time. We found our car and our seats. The first thing we noticed was we were the only passengers in the car. This remained a constant until we reached Voss about an hour or so into the trip. The trip would take us about about 2 hours 15 minutes. I texted our host to let him know we were on board and on time. 


The train from Myrdal took us through stunning scenery, first along frozen lakes dotted with small homes, then along raging rivers that seemed to roil forever downward. For the first hour or so we were treated to more breathtaking views of Norwegian nature.

Eventually civilization took over and at the various stops along the way humanity trickled on and off the train until we reached the lovely little station at Bergen. As our train came to a stop I checked email and since it was raining our host asked if we would like him to come and pick us up at the station! Of course we said yes. We had no sooner walked out of the station than he pulled up. A few minutes later we were at the apartment and settled in.


For more details on our apartment in bergen: https://abnb.me/jtjO5pi4dpb

After our host left we unpacked a few things, grabbed the umbrella and headed out to find the grocery store and wine shop (remember only state-owned stores can sell wine and spirits). Bergen is an incredibly manageable city on foot. Within just a few minutes we found the wine shop and on our way back in the direction of the apartment came across one of the two grocery stores recommended by our host.

That evening I fixed a simple meal of broccoli and potatoes (a staple it seems).

Tomorrow laundry and explore Bergen, in that order!


Relaxing in Flåm and an afternoon on Western Norway's Fjords

22 May 2022.

[Lots of fjord photos coming your way so don't hesitate to scroll through.]

The day opened up with sun and blue sky, quite a change from yesterday. The morning began with yet another in a long line of leisurely breakfasts, this one at our hotel in Flåm. Although truth be told we started early in our room with coffee via a Nespresso machine!

A little before 0800 we walked next door to the hotel's cafe and helped ourselves to a buffet breakfast. Not quite up to the Hilton Slussen in Stockholm standards but not bad, either.

entrance to the hotel cafe

Afterwards we dropped by the Flåm Bakery and picked up a couple of local delicacies for later: one solbolle and one skulebolle (the one with coconut), both basically yeast-dough buns with fillings. I'll let Susie explain those pastries but I can tell you they were both deeeeelicious! 

photo courtesy of the French Tarte

We also picked up a pair of their handmade sandwiches to have in our room for supper later this evening after our return from fjord cruising.

the Flåm Bakery

From the bakery we walked 50 feet to the visitor center where we bought our boat tickets for a cruise later that afternoon.  

We returned to the room and while I worked on travel notes and photos Susie went out for a stroll around the town.  After she returned about an hour or so later we took a short walk (they're all short here in Flåm) to the Flåmsbana Railway Museum located next to the train platform we were on just the day before.  In point of fact, the building that is now the museum was once the train station.


off to the museum





We browsed the exhibitions for a short while -- most of the signage was in Norwegian, unfortunately for us -- but they did have plenty of vintage photos and artifacts telling the story of how the railway was built (and why). They also had an old locomotive as well as several other unique bits of railway equipment, including various pedal and motorized bicycle-like contraptions for working on the line. 

Back we went to the room for a lunch of tasty treats from the Flåm Bakery and a bit of relaxing before our boat ride.

Our boat was due to leave at 15:20 and we were at the dock in the queue a little before the hour. The Flåmsbana had just arrived from Myrdal and most of the passengers went straight from the train to our boat. Quite a logistical accomplishment here in Flåm to be sure.

A few minutes later and we were on board. 

The boat is electric and as you can see from the promo photo below is unique in both design as well as propulsion. I should also point out that the interior is very nice, spacious and with large windows allowing even those who don't want to brave the fjord winds to still get a full view of the grandeur (that word again) this place has to offer. Note there are no stairs just a gradual sloping ramp on each side of the craft. Amazing really. Not only infinitely safer but also allowing more folk to stand by the rail to appreciate the views. 





the hi-speed ferry express to Bergen -- about four hours

view looking toward the bakery and our hotel beyond



The scenery never stops!







one of several small villages along the Aurlandsfjord










note the narrowing ahead


Laegdafossen falls, one of the highlights of the Nærøyfjord

(It should be noted that foss actually means falls in Norwegian but in English general practice seems to include the word falls. I know, a redundancy, but just sayin'. . .)


About two-thirds of the way through the journey Susie and I opted to move inside where it was out of the wind and much cozier. We also wanted to sit and enjoy a glass of prosecco. . . 




small group of campers - one wonders how they got there




a village not far from our destination, Gudvangen


At about 17:20 we pulled in to Gudvangen at the head of Nærøyfjord; the cruise lasted about two hours. A bus was waiting to drive us back to Flåm and the return trip took us through two tunnels that covered pretty much the entire route of about 16kms and lasted about 20 minutes. 

Back at the hotel we picked up a couple of locally brewed beers at the reception desk (from the hotel's brewery). Because of fairly strict Norwegian laws on alcohol, they had to open the cans at the desk and we had to consume them in either the lobby or our rooms. No matter since we planned to have our beers with our sandwiches from the Flåm Bakery back in our room. Another fine supper in Norway!

After supper we took one last stroll around the waterfront in Flåm and let the majesty of this place sweep over us one more time. 

Tomorrow its off to Bergen!

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