Susie's birthday at Gracie's

Well they did it again -- Stan and Margie I mean.

They arranged for a bottle of champagne chilled at the table when we arrived at Gracie's for Susie's birthday dinner.

Let's back up a bit. Saturday morning Susie went in to Gracie's -- she still had to do plenty of prepping for her week off and of course get desserts ready for a wedding that Gracie's was catering that evening. While she slaved over a hot mixer I plotted the remaining moves of the day -- particularly for the evening.

She had made me promise not to buy her anything for her birthday -- our trip to Colorado next week would be our gift to each other for both our 25th anniversary and for her birthday. I said, sure, "I promise not to buy you anything." And of course I went out and promptly bought her an iPod Nano so she could work on her French lessons while rolling dough.

Arranging the dinner at Gracie's was a last minute idea -- I was planning on fixing food at home, you know, having a quiet birthday dinner. I stopped for a moemnt -- slapped my forehead and said "What a knucklehead!" Life is short. Go to Gracie's, have a special night out, relax, eat some really good food. So Saturday afternoon I took not one but two bottles of wine to Gracie's for our "surprise" dinner -- naturally Susie learned of the whole affair but no matter in short order. I was on a roll.

What I did was: I brought a regular 750ml bottle of 1990 Brunello for dinner and a 5L (that five liters or about 7 bottles worth of) 1989 Chianti Classico. We had been saving this for the right occasion and I had the idea to share our good fortune with a roomful of strangers. 

The plan was about a half hour or so after we arrived Anter -- the wine guy at Gracie's -- would pour a glass for everyone in the restaurant.

Which is exactly what happened.

The Big Bottle seemed limitless -- and it was a rush for us to watch the reaction on the faces of all the people who were taken quite by surprise by this glass of old Chianti that appeared out of nowhere. Curiously, the reaction we heard -- and experienced ourselves in fact -- was that the wine tasted rather like beef bouillon. A very nice beef bouillon, too, I should say.

I told Anter to make sure there was plenty left for the staff after the restaurant closed. He said not to worry.

And we didn't.

For the next several hours we relaxed, sipped wine -- beginning with a champagne compliments of Stan and Margie - and just chatted about how our lives have changed so very much in the past three years -- sea changes to be sure.

There was a beautiful arrangement of flowers on the table waiting for us (see the photo above if you don't believe me) -- table 10 in case you need to know -- compliments of Ellen and the Gracie's guys and dolls. Chef Joe's dinner was incredible: seared scallops for starters and a delicious beef ribeye with the cap cut off and both parts prepared side-by-side, followed, with fresh veggies cooked just right -- I mean when was the last time you had fresh peas?

Afterwards we headed home. It was really that simple.

Today, Sunday the air cooled as the humidity dropped; Susie went back to Gracie's for one last, one final prep session. Before she left the two of us thought back on the recent events of last evening. We remarked how we had made the very right decision way back in the winter of 2005. It was in January of that year that I began this blog as we began this adventure as we got ready to head off to Siena and two months of language school.

And the journey continues: soon it's off to Colorado for our anniversary, back for two days and then it's off to NYC and Gracie's dinner at the Beard House, ten days later a quick trip to Maine and in early September back to Paris.

Il viaggio, le voyage, the journey of a lifetime. No, make that two lifetimes.

So here's thanks to you all for wishing us well on this journey. I'm amazed that you still want to hear the stories.

Wish you were here,

Steve

Father's Day

It's been a predominantly hot and sticky week here in Providence. We can of course be thankful for no snow, I admit, and are least grateful for a shift back to less humidity and cooler temps this weekend.

Anyway, little rain and mostly sun has greeted us pretty much every morning. (photo: I admit, I was taking pictures at a local cat show; and yes, pretty much what you'd expect -- lots of cats.)

Like the title says today is Sunday, Father's Day and we can't help but think about our missing dads as we go about today's household chores.

Of course not a day goes by that I don't think about my dad -- it's been months since Rush Medical College agreed grudgingly to the DNA testing and then everything fell off the radar. It's finally gotten to the point where our Vermont attorney has sent them another letter, this one quite threatening but what other choice do we have? I cannot help but wonder, particularly today, if these folks who are at the other end of this story, who probably have fathers they love dearly, if they would like to find themselves in our situation.

A rhetorical question I suppose and I am left to simply wonder at the rationalizations that must zip around the office cubicles and labs at a place like Rush Medical Center.

And of course we are thinking of Tunis, Susan's dad. There never was a harder working soul and the smiles he would get on his face listening to the stories of Uncle Jack or Uncle Don were always worth the price of admission to any family outing -- and here I'm particularly reminded of those on that bluff overlooking Lake Michigan.

But one father is still with us -- Joyce's husband Carl and it looks like the two of them will be joining us at Dick and Dorothy's house in Douglas later today! It'll be great to hear all the news from the North woods and we're bringing the sparkling wine . . .

Otherwise things have been pretty much the same around here: Susie continues to work on developing new desserts for Gracie's and Nell's Sweet Treats continue to sell briskly at the downtown Providence market on Saturdays. (Click here for more details.) I'm finding myself drawn deeper and deeper into the mysterious world of content management systems for the web and frankly am lovin' every minute of it.

So for the moment we are well in good spirits and doing OK. We hope you can say the same and if not that your winds will change for the better and soon.

Oh, and did I mention that we're going back to Paris in September? I didn't? Well that's another story. . .

Gracie, Nell and Kelly at the downtown market in Providence, again

Like the title says, Gracie's had their booth set up again at the Providence downtown market this last Saturday. In fact they plan to continue to set up at the market on Westminster street through the month of June and then again in September. Susie baked French-style macaroons as well as shortbreads, chocolate cupcakes and oatmeal cherry cookies; Gracie's also put out their trio of sandwiches, on fresh-baked breads and croissants of course, along with plenty of cold drinks (corn syrup-free thank you very much).

This is all very new for everyone but the look and feel of the Gracie's booth is making enormous strides to be sure. 

Cara's last night at Gracie's

Well, like the title says, last Wednesday was Cara's last night in the kitchen at Gracie's. She's been there for nearly a year and was instrumental this past winter in helping Susie ease into her new role as Gracie's pastry chef. It was Cara who pretty much showed her the ropes and made Susie's transition into her new job that much easier. Now she's off on a wonderful adventure, seeking fame and fortune out west.

"In bocca al lupo!!"

Food for a moment

Susie has been experimenting with three new sorbets -- they may go on the menu or they may not. While they may not look exciting, believe me their flavor is pretty incredible: lemon-rosemary, blueberry-ginger and strawberry-balsamic-peppercorn.

Graduation week in Providence and Susie's desserts

Susie's classic French shell-shaped Madeleine cakes

It's no secret that Providence is a major food town -- but for those of us who seem to be obsessed with food we often forget that this city is also a major university town as well. The textile mills that once defined the greater Providence area are long gone, replaced by academic buildings and residence halls: University of Rhode Island, Rhode Island College, Providence College, and of course Brown University, Rhode Island School of Design and Johnson & Wales University, to name just a few. 

And last weekend the commencement season for all these schools began in earnest.

One of the Johnson & Wales students, a most amiable young man named Nick, finished his junior year and his job on the website redesign team -- which is where I met him. Pleasant, easy-going, hard-working and reliable, Nick was clearly well-liked by everyone and was surprised with a cake and lots of smiles wishing him well.

Of course, with all the commencements this last weekend and on into the next, also comes plenty of parties at local restaurants and so Susie has been prepping like crazy trying -- successfully I might add -- to stay ahead the game as it were.

And so on Saturday Susie had a very long day indeed. After she had been at work for nearly 10 hours I drove after 5:00 p.m. to pick her up. As I walked in the door I quickly discovered that a serious party was just about to get underway at Gracie's -- six of the staff at the restaurant are graduating this year and two of them were holding a party in the restaurant that very evening. I had the foresight to bring the camera so I snapped a few quick photos to share with you:

Danielle and her brother

Katelynn (Mike in the background)

Danielle

Gracie's server

Before we left to go home I had a unique opportunity to grab a few photos of Susie's desserts being plated. Normally we don't get a chance to see these since it usually only happens late into the evening. But someone had ordered a dessert tasting early it seems so . . .

Banana pistachio cake with honey-mascarpone cream and chopped pistachios and chocolate nibs

Chocolate chambord-sabayon (in the espresso cup) with shortbread sticks

Lemon curd tart with lemon cream

On Sunday Dick and Dorothy drove down from Douglas, MA, and the four of us walked over to Nick's for breakfast. The wait was long -- about half an hour -- but hey it was graduation weekend. The service was slow of course, but, as always the food was good.

The big news for us is that two more condo units sold recently; and in fact a young couple already closed and started moving into one of the town home units already. So now we're half full.

Or half empty. It's your call.

Anyway, the weather has been good, aside from a little rain last week.

You really should have been here.

Ciao,

Steve

Food, wine and song. . . in Providence

Sunday was a beautiful day here in Providence and we made the most of it. That morning Susie and I strolled over to Nick's on Broadway for breakfast -- again. We arrived a little before nine and the "joint was jumpin." The wait was 15-30 minutes but we didn't mind. With the layout at Nick's it's a great place to watch the food being prepared, the people eating it and to strike up the occasional conversation with a another "chowhound."

They finally called our name and we were soon ensconced at the bar -- our favorite place since you get to watch all the action -- and frankly on a busy Sunday morning that can be riveting.

But what to order? was our dilemma that morning; a dilemma we experience every time we go to Nick's. Derek Wagner's menus is creative, imaginative and full of wonderful ingredients. Of course it may seem rushed as you watch the choreography behind the counter but each dish is carefully and lovingly prepared. (photo: Susie's incredible dacquoise with lemon curd.)

Susie ordered one of the wraps: scrambled eggs and prosciutto with mozzarella I believe. They finish the wrap off on the griddle to give it a toasty and slightly warm edge. Incredible.

I ordered one of the specials, the potato-fennel cakes topped with a pair of perfectly poached eggs, finished off with Hollandaise sauce. For an added treat I also ordered a side of the scrumptious maple pork sausage.

Notice the greens? I asked what they were and even though Derek was moving in six directions at once, he explained that they were called "lamb lettuce," also known as "mache." His idea, he told me across two counters, was to provide both a pleasing color contrast and a refreshing crispness to the other elements on the plate. It certainly worked for me.

Oh, and we're not sure but we think we just happened to be sitting next to "Nick."

You just can't go wrong with a place like this.

Later that afternoon -- after Susie worked for a few hours at Gracie's -- the two of us drove over to East Providence to explore some of the more than 14 miles of the East Bay Bike Path.

After I picked Susie up in front of Gracie's and made a u-turn, we couldn't help but notice across the street that the revolution had returned to Providence, at least in front of the public library -- part of the Ben Franklin traveling show and exhibition going on inside I suppose.

The sun was out as we parked the car just off of Veterans parkway and started a hike along the old railroad bed that runs along the east side of the bay. The sun soon disappeared the headwinds turned rather brutal. But it was nice to be out and the bike path is a grand place for some exercise.

Monday brought even more food adventures. Susie and I spent a wonderful evening enjoying good food and great company -- or great food and even better company -- anyway we had a grand time at Gracie's.

Working with the folks at the Savory Grape wine shop in East Greenwich, RI, who brought in the owner of Easton Wines in California, Gracie's put on a spectacular dinner last evening. I had been asked if I would come and take some photos and naturally Susie came along.

We arrived about 6 p.m. and already the folks were gathering at the bar, steeling themselves for the culinary surprises hovering just around the corner in the kitchen.

Susie and I sat with Gracie regulars Bill and Christine and two other couples who happened to be big fans of the Savory Grape.

The tables were laid out with a casual elegance and the participants were a casually informal, fun loving bunch, clearly eager to learn not only about Easton's wines but also what was in store for them in the kitchen.

We didn't have long to wait. Here's the breakdown:

First Course
Tuna "Nicoise" Terrine with Crisp Leeks, Haricot Verts, White Anchovies, Cured Olives, Re Manfredi First Press Olive Oil, Tomato Water and Eva's Pea Tendrils.
Wine Pairing: 2006 Easton Sierra Sauvignon Blanc

Second Course
Truffled Fava Bean Agnolotti with Buerre Noisette and Morel and Fava Bean Fricassee.
Wine Pairing: 2005 Terre Rouge Enigma (Marsanne, Viognier, Rousanne)

Third Course
Over Roasted Point Judith Black Bass Accompanied by Crisp Pork Rillons, First of the Season Ramps (of the onion family), a Terre Rouge Buerre Noir.
Wine Pairing:1999 Terre Rouge Noir (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre)

Fourth Course
Seared Wolfs Neck Farm's Hangar Steak Glazed with Banyuls Shallot Jus and Served with Triple Cooked Chips, Pan Roasted Spicy Greens, Creamed Garlic.
Wine Pairing:2002 Easton Shenandoah Valley Estate Zinfandel

Dessert
Baked "Rhode Island," Johnnycake Sponge Cake Topped with Rocky Road Coffee Milk Ice Cream and Crisp Gooey Marshmallow Meringue.
Wine Pairing:Easton Late Harvest Zinfandel

This may sound like a small thing, but I've never, ever had fresh peas that were so perfectly cooked, nice and crisp, as if they were right out of the pod and warmed just enough. And the thin-sliced fava beans! Don't get me started on those. . . Incredible!

You should have been there. . . Just hit play!

"Art of the Tart" at Gracie's

No, this isn't about a cheap woman who paints. It's about food. Really good food. Last Monday night, 4 February, Susie and chef Joe Hafner gave a class in the kitchen at Gracie's, "The Art of the Tart," or, how to make great tart dough. (photo: Joe, Susie and Cara gearing up or the tart demo!)

When I learned about the class I asked Joe if I could take a few photos and he was kind enough not only to allow me to intrude on this very personal evening but he fed me as well!

Joe and Cara had everything prepared for the savory portion of the evening's class, and Brendan had chosen the wines for the evening.

Joe

Cara

Brandon

Susie demonstrated how to prepare two different dough recipes: a chocolate dough, followed by her personal favorite, a pate sableé with almonds (d'amandes). Using these two basic doughs she prepared three desserts for the evening's presentation: a chocolate ganache tart, a lemon-lime tart, and a pear-almond tart.




The class was small, only five people, but they were clearly a dedicated group of serious cooks, and the questions flew fast for most of the session.

"How do you. . . ?"

"Why do you . . . ?"

"Really?

"Why?"

These folks came to Gracie's that night for two reasons: to learn how to make good food better and then eat it. They certainly got what they bargained for.


After the demonstration, Joe and Cara fixed a delicious traditional quiche filled with bacon, leek and gruyere followed by a breast of duck cooked to perfection -- and believe me it tasted as good as it looks.


Brendan, the wine master at Gracie's paired a Ramey chardonnay with the quiche and then a Malbec from Argentina with the duck. With dessert we had a tokay from Hungary.

Everyone had a wonderful time and you can tell that Susie has, as Joe pointed rightly out, "hit her stride."

Wish you had been there!

Steve