Back on the road again

[Warning: besides some nice color photos this may not appear to be a very exciting trip to some of you who are not familiar with the cast of characters involved. We beg to differ.]

Sitting here in Dick and Dorothy's kitchen in Douglas I have time to catch up on our 2022 Eastern US road trip to visit family and friends. 

This past Tuesday was a gorgeous autumn day in West Michigan as we pulled out of our driveway and headed for Port Huron and the Canadian border. Before our departure we had just learned that Canada had lifted all restrictions which included having to use the ArriveCan app within 72 hours before crossing. Another travel hassle avoided.

We made good time through Michigan passing some nice color along the way, a harbinger of color yet to come.

There was hardly any traffic at the border which was a plus and we passed through quickly; the border guard was smiling as he welcomed us into Canada, a nice touch.

Traffic was light as we zipped through Ontario, until we reached the 401 when, of course, vehicular volume really picked up. One stop for lunch at the Onroute Service Area near Woodstock and we were back on the highway soon switching to the 403. 

We skirted Hamilton via the Lincoln-Alexander Parkway and before long found ourselves parked at the US border at Lewiston. Cooling our heels for about 25 minutes along with hundreds of other folks, all the while spewing more carbon emissions into the environment than necessary, we passed through into the greater Buffalo area in the search of I-90 and the New York Thruway. The state of New York is in the process of redoing the service plazas on the Thruway, a serious nuisance to be sure, and quite a few are open for gas only. This will undoubtedly affect our planning for the return trip this Sunday.

As we neared Rochester we turned south onto I-390 and headed for Corning, New York, our first stop of the trip. 

We had never driven down I-390 before and found the road in good shape but it was the stunning autumn color along the route that we couldn't stop talking about: Mile after mile of huge swatches of golds, reds, and various shades in between. This visual chorus would be pretty much the story for most of the rest of the trip but we would never tire of it.

quick bathroom stop off the QEW

After about nine hours we arrived at our hotel in Corning. It was fourth time we stayed in this lovely town and the third time at the Hilton Garden Inn, a great location right next to Corning's headquarters and a short walk across the river to the main part of town. 

After checking in we opted to just hang out at the hotel and sitting outside with a glass of wine. For dinner we grabbed a couple of salads at the hotel before turning in for the night.

relaxing in Corning

Leaving Corning Wednesday morning a little after 9:00 am we traveled up I-86 and switched to I-88 at Binghamton, New York. Upon arriving at Oneonta we got off the interstate onto Rte 23 and the casual driving of back country roads. After a total trip of about 3 hours we pulled into the Archer driveway in the hills over looking Prattsville.

Gloria had prepared a tasty lunch for us - egg salad, Tabouli, Salmon salad, slaw and focaccia. The four of us sat and caught up on all the news, sharing stories and trials from the past year. (We last saw them  on our 2021 driving trip out east.)

outside at the Archer's

brunch with the Archers

Eventually we said adieu to the Archers and returned to the highway. Making our way out of the Catskills and onto I-87 north for just a few miles before we switched to I-90 east just south of Albany. We continued to revel in lovely fall color until reaching the Connecticut River Valley when the trees turned drab with little character. Leaving the I-90 at I-395 we headed south towards Connecticut getting off on Rte 16 at Webster wending our way on backroads until we reached D & D's home in Douglas, MA.

Rte 23 heading down out of the Catskills

view looking down in to the Hudson Valley from Rte 23

After unloading and unpacking we were greeted with hugs and glasses of Prosecco awaiting one final guest for dinner, our niece Mallory.

The remainder of the evening was spent swapping stories, trying to keep all discussion of health issues to a minimum and enjoying a delicious meal of stuffed shells, a specialty for which sister-in-law Dorothy is widely known.

On to Massachusetts

Day two of our road trip we began the morning relaxing and enjoying coffee in our room. We brought our Nespresso Mini with us and a good thing it was since the only option would've been in-room Keurig Cups. No thanks.

A little before 10am we loaded the car and were back on the road and heading east out of Corning. 

It was another gorgeous, warm morning and a lovely day for a drive. Traffic was light as we passed along the Chemung and Susquehanna Valleys, through Elmira and Binghamton where we switched to I-88 north to Albany. At Oneonta we got off onto state route 23 where our progress slowed by half but we enjoyed the scenery and small villages that dotted our way to Prattsville.

After a little more than 170 miles and three hours we pulled into the Archer homestead. 

Located in the the Catskills, Don and Gloria have been pretty much hunkered down here for the better part of the past year or so. We enjoyed a scrumptious lunch out on their back deck overlooking the surrounding hills: chili, coleslaw, Turkish bread, salmon salad, fruit and a delicious aged cheddar. It was so quiet and peaceful and was a perfect spot for the four of us to catch up on all the news -- we hadn't seen each other for over three years so there was a lot to chat about. 

Susie and I said our goodbyes to D & G, wishing them well and hoping to see them again sooner than later. We piled into the Subaru and about 2:30 pm pushed on to Massachusetts.

The drive was uneventful, traffic light, roads OK, as we made our way to I-87 north then on to I-90 east. A little over three hours later were pulling onto Linden Street and into to Dick & Dorothy's driveway. We unloaded the car and the four of us relaxed on their patio with a glass of cold Prosecco. About 6:30 we were joined for dinner by our niece Mallory and we all had the unique opportunity to enjoy a delicious Shepherd's Pie followed by a rhubarb cake for dessert. 

The day had been marked by a relaxing pair of drives mixed with warm fellowship and friendly banter. It's hard to imagine a better way to spend one's time.

Next up, a trip down memory lane, or rather down Route 146 to Providence, Rhode Island.

Returning to Grand Rapids, Michigan - working remotely and looking for a home

As we move ever closer to a permanent home in Michigan, we also move our concept of home as well: it's now "returning" as opposed to "visiting" or "going to" Michigan. As we contemplate our trip back to Providence to tidy things up one last time, those ideas will become even more fixed for  both of us.

We waited until the Memorial Day Weekend was over before packing the car and "returning" to Michigan. I officially started work as a part time employee the end of May so I also spent the better part of our final days preparing for working from the road. Meanwhile, Susie continued to pack our stuff up:

We left Providence Wednesday afternoon and spent a leisurely three hours or so driving up into the Catskills in search of respite at the Archer home in Prattsville. We passed through a rather serious thunderstorm around Albany but by the time we pulled into the Archers we were rain free. Gloria had prepared an incredible meal which was patiently waiting for us: a wonderful salad of greens balanced by a scrumptious slow-cooked pot roast with carrots and potatoes. My God how that woman can cook!

We spent a wonderful evening of warm conversation and good food before hitting the sheets. It was so dark and quiet in those mountains. . .

the Archer home in Prattsville

From the Archer home we meandered our way up New York state roads to Oneonta where we picked up I-88 to Binghamton. From there we navigated our way to I-86 and found ourselves virtually alone on the highway for mile after mile. Not a car passed us nor did we see or pass a car. It was strangely pleasant -- the landscape reminded us of Vermont -- gorgeous in other words.

Along the way we stopped at a rest area that must rank as one of the attractions along the Southern Tier Expressway: the Allegany river rest area. The architecture and interior decor was straight out of someone's dream of what a rest area would be like if Indians (i.e., native Americans) designed them. Incredibly beautiful and very touching. If you find yourself driving this way go see this.

Allegany River rest area along I-86

Once we hit Erie, Pennsylvania, located unsurprisingly along the eastern shore of Lake Erie, we picked up I-90 and turned south to Ohio, one of the more misunderstood states. Just before reaching Cleveland we stopped for the night at a Red Roof Inn in Willoughby.

After checking in we drove to nearby Mentor-on-the-Lake to see what it held in dining possibilities (none) and settled for an unremarkable meal at a Friday's near our motel.  Still, the lake looked impressive:

Mentor-on-the-Lake (Lake Erie that is)

TGI Friday's for dinner 

With an early start the next morning we were in Grand Rapids before noon.

The next phase of our lives - the search for a new home - began in earnest with an occasional aside to see an old friend or two and some family. Fraught with frustration and uncertainty, we were constantly reminded at how really difficult it is to find a place to call "home." But find it we shall.

Tomorrow we leave for Providence, although it's quite possible that we might see a home early in the morning before we depart: that's how crazy we have become. But this place has real potential.

Anyway, we will spend the night in Batavia, New York (nope, not sure why), arriving in Providence early afternoon the following day.

Stay tuned for what happens next!

Color touring in the Catskills, visiting the Archers in Prattsville and then dinner in Douglas

After we left the Clark in Williamstown, dodging the rain to get to the car, we headed back south. Our destination for the day was the Archer home in Prattsville, New York, deep in the heart of the northern Catskills. The rain pretty much stayed with us the remainder of the day as we drove down various byways of western Massachusetts and eastern New York.

We eventually found our way back to the New York Thruway (I-90) and near Albany picked up I-87 south, exiting at Route 23. We climbed the mountain near Durham and drove through familiar territory passing through Windham and Ashland before turning off into the wild woods just short of the village of Prattsville.

Don and Gloria were there to welcome us into their warm home where we sat and shared all the latest developments in both our families. Dinner that evening was a variant of pot roast with roasted potatoes, squash and carrots, tiny green beans lightly fried and the last of the local corn. Dessert was provided by the French Tarte: a chocolate bread pudding with mascarpone whipped cream. Delicious, comfort food outmatched only by the warm hospitality of our hosts.

We chatted on into the evening but sleep got the better of us and before long we were tucked in bed. I did scoot outside briefly in the drizzle to savor the quiet and pitch dark skies.

The next morning began as different from the previous one as night is from day.  The sun filled the rooms with light and the hills were ablaze with the colors of autumn -- a much-appreciated by-product of our short trip out from Providence.

Conversations continued over coffee and Susie's brioche and bouchons and we provided much-needed solutions to the world's pressing problems.

There was no putting off the reality that we were going to have to leave -- and so we said our good-byes. In our nomadic lives, the style we have chosen, the few friends we have are scattered far and wide and so it is always a bit melancholy to say adieu.

A bientot!

off the back porch

off the back porch

the new siding and red door

looking up the road toward the house

It was a slow drive back east and to Douglas for dinner at dick and Dorothy's home. We cruised down the Mass Pike, I-90 to I-395 and then south to Route 16.

A quarter past 5pm we pulled into Dick and Dorothy's driveway. They had glasses of sparkling wine chilled and ready to hand out as soon as walked in the door. A light appetizer was followed by more incredible food, the last of their green beans a new pork tenderloin recipe, scalloped potatoes (yeah!), capped off by one of Dorothy's apple pies, a la mode, of course.

 It had been a whirlwind trip to be sure but we saw stunning color and caught up with old friends in the Catskills and the Berkshires.

The Catskills, old friendships and Hannah Arendt's Grave

I had a long weekend off for the Fourth of July and Susie closed up shop (literally) for those four days as well.

On the Fourth we headed to Douglas, MA, for a family dinner at Dick and Dorothy's home. Tucked into the woody quiet, we were joined by Uncle Frank and Aunt Cathy (who is looking remarkably well these days). We all sat outside in the shade with cool breezes compliments of Vornado.

Eventually we all moved inside for a delicious dinner of  Dor's potato salad, fresh greens from their garden and grilled chicken.

The next morning Susie and I packed an overnight bag and loaded some sweet treats into a cooler along with chilled white wine and headed west to the Catskills to see the Archers. We hadn't been in their corner of the planet since October of 2009 and felt it was long overdue to sit in the quiet of their woods (notice the theme developing here? That's city folk talkin'). Since they were planning on a full house of kids, grandkids, Susie and I arranged to stay in a nearby bed and breakfast.

We cruised up Route 146 north to I-90 (known euphemistically as the Mass Pike) where we turned left (west) for the mountains of western Massachusetts. Traffic was light as we sped down the highway stopping for gas and Beer Nuts (but no beer). We soon crossed the Berkshires and plunged into the Hudson River Valley, catching I-87 south of Albany. Having travelled this highway many times when we lived in Vermont we felt like we had just met up with an old friend we hadn't seen in years -- and indeed, that would rather describe our meeting with the Archers as well. But more of that later.

The weather was warm but the Mini's A/C held its own and we attempted not to notice the temperature outside reading well into the 90s, especially as we came down out of the mountains.

We weren't on I-87 south long before we turned off onto Route 23 west which would take us deep into the northern edges of the Catskills, and, good news, cooler temperatures! Just west of Windham, NY, we took Route 17 south to Route 23A, where we turned west again and before long passed the sleepy village of Lexington. Just past the village was our B and B, the Mountain Meadow Inn.

Run by the Cuesta family the inn is actually four rooms on the top floor; ours had a wonderful bathroom and an A/C unit in the window! The breakfasts were made using their own fresh eggs, their own maple syrup and even freshly made blueberry jam from the day before.

our bed and breakfast: the Mountain Meadow Inn, Lexington, NY

and the barn in the back

breakfast of fresh eggs, homemade maple syrup and fresh picked cherries

From the b and b it was a quick 10-minute drive to the Archer homestead located deep in the woods of the northern Catskills.

the Archer homestead

out the back door

one of Susie's contributions for dessert: chocolate moelleux

Don Archer

Don, the MOCA version

Don

learning to knit

Sarah and her children

Seth Archer

father and daughter

Seth and his wife Monica

Susie getting stumped

stump the chump (me)

Sarah

Susie

After checking out of our b and b on Saturday morning we spent a little more quality time at the Archers -- conversations spun around and around, ideas cast hither and yon, a typical morning over coffee and Blueberry Buckle at the Archer house.

But the time arrived when we had to say au revoir and pack ourselves back in the Mini and head east to the grit and asphalt of Rubetown.  But we didn't have to rush, of course, and so we stopped in Winhdam for the summer fair. Small town America lives in the Catskills!

From Windham we opted to meander back roads and turned south on Route 296 where we picked up Route 23A in Hunter (a major ski resort), and couldn't help but notice the number of Orthodox Jewish men walking along the road.

Anyway, 23A was nice  but very narrow and only two-lane going down the mountain -- but we did catch a glimpse of the Kaatserkill Falls -- one place we had hoped to stop. But our hopes were dashed by the lack of available parking and believe me parking along the roadway was NOT an option.

So we cruised our way to the Rip Van Winkle Bridge, crossing the Hudson we made our way into Hudson, where we had a delicious sandwich at the Cascades, right on the main drag.

a sidewalk burrito stand 

We were duly impressed with Hudson: trendy shops but they had the good sense and decency to keep all the original (mostly) storefronts so you get a sense of a 19th century New York village walking comfortably into the 21st century. Definitely a place to revisit if we ever come this way again.

From Hudson we retraced our route (partly) down 9G, passing the Rip Van Winkle Bridge. Our goal now was to find Bard College and the gravesite of Hannah Arendt. When I was deep into the throes of political philosophy, Hannah Arendt was one of two or three major influences and since we were nearby we both felt what time to pay our respects.

After driving about 20 minutes we saw an entrance to Bard's athletic fields and zoomed right on by, figuring we would take the next turn. And so we did. No sooner had we pulled into the college than we nearly ran smack into the cemetery.

We found parking along faculty circle (one wonders if that was legal) but we saw no sign for parking let along a sign for the cemetery. In fact we eventually learned that had we entered Bard College grounds at the first opportunity coming south we would probably never have found the cemetery in the first place.

Although there was no sign over this pretty little wooden entrance, clearly this was the "official" way into the cemetery. Not many headstones and some of the older ones, from the 19th century I assume, were in a pretty sorry state of disrepair and neglect.

Susie and I both looked for Hannah but couldn't find her. So I whipped out the trusty iPhone, googled her grave and got a photo posted on wikipedia -- now we knew what to look for.

entrance to the cemetery from faculty circle

Hannah is located just about dead center rear

After leaving the cemetery we drove around Bard. The streets were deserted and we saw virtually no one around. So we found our way back to the highway and Susie plotted a course to take us home via the back roads of northern Connecticut on into Rhode Island.

It had been a very short trip to be sure, but oh so sweet.

Seeing Don and Gloria and their kids again is always an engaging and illuminating experience. And we had the added benefit of visiting Hannah Arendt's grave, crossing the Hudson twice, and seeing so many parts of small town New England we will probably never visit again. Some time back Dick and Dorothy took an extended trip along the byways of the Hudson Valley and raved about the scenery and beauty -- we can now understand why.