Showing posts with label 2005. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2005. Show all posts

Strolling the streets of Siena figuring out what to do next

Having put our Vermont house on the market and our stuff in storage, and without any clear plan in mind, we headed off for Italy in the fall of 2005. Our first stop was a small apartment  in the Torre contrada just off the Pizza del Campo in Siena, Italy, which we rented on a month-by-month basis.

The two of us spent our days meandering the side-streets and back-alleys of this medieval walled city, wrapped in stone, protected from the cares of the world while we figured out what to do with the rest of our lives. I'd like to share a few moments of that very special time with you:


Happy New Year!

Romano talks with Roberto Bechi

In February of 2005, during an extended trip to Siena, local guide and Siena expert Roberto Bechi and I began videotaping a series of interviews of Tuscans talking about living and working in Tuscany. This is, I believe, the very first one we did. Roberto's good friend "Romano" operates the last bottega in Florence, the Casa di Tessuti, or "house of treasures," a store where they sell absolutely incredible fabrics. And of course, Florence began her life as a source for some of the world's grandest fabrics.

  

Week one

We’ve ended our first full week back in Siena and it seems as of we have been here for months. So much has happened or rather seems to have happened as we grapple with what we want to do with the rest of our lives.

I gave my first digital workshop on Sunday afternoon and then all day Monday and we spent most of the day traveling to a couple of my favorite photo locations: the “crete” (clay hills) southwest of Siena and then to the abandoned abbey at San Galgano southeast of the city. Although the weather cooperated both days we lost the sun on Monday. Still it was a good day of shooting all around. Meanwhile Sue spent much of her time walking, working on her two bear orders and continuing her herbal DVD course. So it was a pretty busy first part of the week for sure.

On Tuesday morning we got in the car – I had moved it to a parking space near the fortezza – and drove to Florence Vespucci airport to drop it off a day earlier than we planned since we no longer needed it and in fact it had become a liability with parking at such a premium in Siena.

We took the shuttle into downtown Florence since we wanted to check out the facilities of Apicius, the Culinary School in Florence. Before we left the US Susan had mentioned to me she was interested in finding a school in Italy that had a pastry program. I went online and discovered Apicius, which in fact has a year-long program just in pastry and baking.

After we had a good (surprise) lunch near the Duomo we headed over to the school’s main office (it’s in two separate locations) and got a tour of the administrative and wine expertise program facilities. We then walked to the pastry and cooking facilities about ten minutes away. It was a gorgeous day and we had a very nice stroll through the backstreets of Florence. The school is impressive and the facilities certainly appeared up-to-date and serious indeed. The woman who we needed to speak with however was not available so we decided to return next week and meet with her. After we left the school and then took a late afternoon bus back to Siena, a trip of just about 75 minutes or about half the time the train would have taken.

During the week we also renewed our relationship with Aimone, owner of the Cantina in Piazza, a wine bar and enoteca just a few steps off the Piazza del Campo but a world away in many respects. The Cantina is one of the best places in the city to buy wine and to taste wine– the selection may be the largest outside of the official state-run enoteca in the fortezza, Aimone, who is in his 50s, along with his wife, son, daughter and staff Valentina and Alessandra are not only serious about wine but they are kind and generous as well.

We have become fast friends with Aimone and Alessandra and so we have spent pretty much every evening having our aperitivi at the Cantina, talking and learning about Italian wine and food. This coming week Aimone has promised to show me how to prepare fresh porcini mushrooms – which are available right now – and Susan is angling for help on developing her baking skills in preparing Italian breads, cakes, etc. It should prove to be an interesting week indeed.

Speaking of food we have pretty much gotten back into our routine of fixing dinner at home – although we do have our antipasti at the Cantina. And we did ea dinner at Nello Saturday evening (22 October). 

Anyway, with the fresh vegetables available, vegetables such as green beans and fennel and eggplant, it is simply too tempting to eat at home. And Sunday evening Sue fixed her very first dessert: poached pears in chocolate sauce, a Jacques Pepin recipe. And man oh man was that a delicious end to the meal! Bit by bit Sue is adding to her baking larder so that before long she will be ready to start baking big time.

Monday afternoon we will take the train out to Asciano (about a 24 minute trip) to meet with Patti Bechi, ostensibly to discuss our video interview project Roberto Bechi and I began last winter/spring but also so that I can go to her dentist and have a temporary crown re-cemented. Anyway Roberto is busy every day right now with tour groups so Patti and I will hammer out the details of how we want this project to evolve. I had called her Sunday morning to tell her I needed to see a dentist and she said wow her daughter had a dentist appointment the very next afternoon and could we take the train out to meet her and we could also talk about the project’s development? So things are working out well so far.

We have heard nothing on the pending home sale, which is good news, I suppose. And speaking of homes we are scheduled to meet with a real estate agent here in Siena Tuesday at noon to look at property. We need all the information we can get right now in order to help make any kind of intelligent decision about our future.

Right now our future is about as unclear as it has ever been. Each day we talk about where we want to go and what we want to do but no answers seem forthcoming. Wednesday we go back to Florence so that Sue can meet with one of the counselors at Apicius.

Who knows what will happen?

School in London - Assessment

October 6, 2005.

So, is International House in London worth the time and money for the student looking to get a CELTA certificate?

The short answer is yes.

IH London certainly has a large network of affiliated schools in more than 100 countries to help you find work -- the qualification there is you must not be terribly picky about where you go or for how long. Getting a CELTA certificate from a school with the reputation of IH in London can certainly stand you in good stead over the years, particularly if you want to move up in that particular world of teaching specialization. Or so it seems to one as new to all this as I am -- and if you put stock in general hearsay at any rate.

Remember I know so very little about the subculture of teaching English overseas (or anywhere else for that matter). Still, having spent a month doing this very intense "thing" I must have some insight somewhere (give me a minute and I'll start looking for it right away). In fact any insight I have I gleaned from this experience actually comes from those other 14 people who shared those four weeks with me; 14 of the most interesting and truly special people -- each very different and each with their own unique flavor of what the course meant to them. But what I learned from them is worth every single penny (or pence) I spent in those four weeks. You can't buy that kind of experience.

The longer answer is that while IH in London has a great strength in its people the staff and ultimately the students -- indeed the student teaching practice groups are everything or at least mine was to me -- the school needs updating. While the library is more than adequate the hours need extending. Photocopying facilities are severely limited as well.And these are two key components for the student teacher. In fact the facilities overall are a bit worn and in some cases need serious attention. Rooms are often poorly laid out (white boards mounted on the short wall not on the long side for example) and nearly all used tiny desks rather than tables (resembling more a middle school in the states than a training school for adults). The school is also somewhat behind the technology curve: no WiFi hotspots and although they have quite a few computers in the media access lab they use EXTREMELY slow internet servers. And no DVD players or CD players. In fact they could use better A/V facilities throughout.

The school is preparing to make a move from Mayfair to the Holborn area, a move which should take place within the next year or so, and which, we were told, would effectively resolve some of the problems we encountered.

Ultimately, you cannot go wrong being in London.

Before you do anything about going anywhere, just ask yourself two questions: what is it you hope to get out of learning to teach English abroad and what are your long term goals? Then start your research with those answers uppermost in your mind. When you've done that then take the plunge, put your money down and get ready to go to work for four highly satisfying and very stressful weeks. Because you're going to have to find all this out for yourself.


School in London - Accommodations

Notes about my  accommodation: 

First let me say that my hostess Mrs. Balali and her daughter Hoda were very pleasant and extremely helpful, emphasizing that we should just make ourselves at home during our stay. 

Food: As to specifics, however, there are some holes here: my arrangement called for 4 dinners a week as well as breakfast but in fact breakfast is little more than dry cereal and toast made at our discretion (that’s OK) but coffee and tea are available only if we make it ourselves apparently. Dinner so far (1) has been unimpressive: no vegetables or greens or fruit (also no fruit in the morning) only rice, potatoes and meat(balls); dish of ice cream for dessert. I have taken to getting fruit where I can during the day or on my way into central London. We’ll see what future dinners bring – I can see though that eating out will be more frequent than I had originally planned.

Week 1:

Meal no. 2 was a bit better: roasted potatoes, baked chicken and sautéed broccoli but with a little cup of store-bought choc mousse for dessert. Water only is offered with dinner.

Meal 3 I missed because I ran late at school but when I got back they were just finishing and it appeared to be pasta with a tomato sauce and store-bought loaf of sliced bread.

Meal 4 consisted of a Persian rice dish (onion and broccoli I think), which was good and baked salmon with a yogurt sauce, which was also very nice, and potatoes.

Week 2:

Monday’s meal was really quite mediocre, picture meat loaf cut into slabs like bacon and then broiled (I think) in some kind of greasy gravy served with a HEAPING bowl of “chips” (a huge bag of French fires it would seem), although there was some iceberg lettuce cut up on the side as well.

Tuesday I skipped ostensibly because I planned on working late in the city which was true although I also stopped at a nearby restaurant on my home for couscous and shish kebab . Anyway by the time I got home the group was still eating dinner so I stopped in and said hi. Soodabeh was not feeling well – she looked tired – and the evening meal consisted of the UK’s version of KFC with each diner eating out of their own box of “chips”. In any case, it looked quite unappealing and certainly not very healthy. 

Wednesday I ate a large lunch and got back late in any event.

Thursday was pretty good by comparison with the other meals. Pork loin broiled with soy sauce, small round potatoes sautéed and fresh green beans. 

Week 3:

Monday – good meal this evening: rice and sautéed chicken (flavor slightly reminiscent of 5-spice powder)

Tuesday - boiled potatoes out of a can I think and meatballs, both in roughly equal proportions sharing my plate and all swimming in a fairly tasteless yellow-orange sauce..

Wednesday – had to eat out again, not so much because I worked late but for the more obvious reasons of I can only take so much of the food in the house.

Thursday – chili con carne with rice. OK. Good conversation with Soodbaeh’s son Eissa, who is half-Raqi (Shia) and half-Iranian. 

Week 4:

Monday – roast chicken with potatoes and broccoli

Tuesday – pasta with a meat sauce and a salad

Wednesday – eating out with Joerig from Switzerland

Thursday – Richard and I ate out at a wonderful Indian restaurant in West Hampstead.

Friday – I ate my final meal at Shish in Willesden Green.

The house is located an easy 10-minute walk from the Tube station (18 minutes into Central London) and in a quiet residential neighborhood (as promised). Just a 2-minute walk away is a large and very nice green area, park really, and is a great place for strolling. The actual room itself is unimpressive, particularly since this is the top tier of accommodations available through the school: the bathroom is OK although rather narrow and the fan runs on a timer (annoying) while the water pressure in the shower is minimal to say the least but certainly nothing to complain about. Furniture is spartan – the desk chair collapsed the second day and broke apart; it was actually already in the processing of collapsing when I moved in and Mrs. Balali knew about this and promised to replace it but it broke first late one evening and I got a replacement from her son, a hard folding chair (small detail but may prove important).

At the end of four weeks the room had been cleaned only once and linen changed only once. 

School in London - Week 4

September 25, 2005.

So it’s over. Friday was our very last day of the course but in fact we were all effectively finished Thursday when the last of our teaching practices were over and we quickly became aware that whatever our final “grade” might be we had all passed the course. The frightening thing now is that we are all certified to teach the English language to people who have absolutely no clue as to what we might or might not be capable of doing! Yet the reality is that we are ready to do just that.

Our last teaching session on Friday, was unobserved and we could do whatever we wanted – no lesson plan, no preparation (well OK there was some preparation) – just have a good time. That we did. 

Our final input session was on professional development (by Annie) and “Fun and Games” by Ben. Just before we broke for lunch we all gave them both a Thank You card and each a bottle of champagne. They have made an enormous difference in our lives, probably in ways we don’t understand just yet and may not realize for years to come. They may feel that we made some progress as teacher trainers, good, and hope for the best as we plunge into the world of English teaching abroad – but the reality is that our lives, each of the 15 lives in this class, have been altered irrevocably.

It’s a bit after 4 in the afternoon and some of us are sitting around having drinks and chatting for what will undoubtedly be the last time we are together. Every day for the past four weeks we have all walked the same paths, climbed the same stairs, went to the same bathrooms (OK boys to the boys and girls to the girls) and know a great deal about each other and yet know each very little. Odd but true. The powerful nature of this situation has naturally produced s feeling of loss – I should be in the library photocopying, I should be writing a lesson plan, I should be DOING SOMETHING in this course. But the reality is that the course is over. It is finished. It is done. We have passed. 

People are leaving, Joerig is gone, Christina is saying good bye, Sithara is leaving, Jackie too, so many of us who have become maybe not friends but supporters of each other. The words are coming fast now but the simple fact is we must go our own separate ways; we each have a life to live and a future to get on with.

The week began on a note of high anxiety. Assignments were due, final lesson plans had to be prepared and of course the nearer each of us got to our last teaching practice the more nervous we became. For our particular group we had the distinction of having the senior assessor from Cambridge observing us on Wednesday (when Sophie and I finished) of course there was a bit of interest in that slight twist in things.

But in the end we all 15 finished and everyone passed (except the one fellow who was there just for the training and not for the certificate). Well OK the pass is not official – those will be mailed out Monday and the actual certificates arrive in about two months’ time.

For me it was a relief to have finished and I suppose for everyone else as well. 

The rain had stopped and the sun came out while we were all saying our goodbyes in the bar, so that was nice. I put away my umbrella and walked to the tube station to head back to Willesden Green. I had packed my big bag the night before and now just needed to get it to Paddington station and leave if in the “left luggage” room there. My flight isn’t until late Saturday evening so Saturday I will be meeting Trevor. He’s one of the students from the other CELTA group (there were two groups of 15 each taking the course) and he and I have often met in the mornings at the nearby Starbucks for coffee. Anyway although he’s from Northern Ireland he’s lived in London for I think he said 26 years, and worked for some years as a accountant. Anyway when he found out I had time on my hands he suggested we meet downtown and he’d give me a tour before heading out to Heathrow. And since my tube line is closed for the weekend I wanted to get my bag out of the house and on it’s way, sort of, and since I can get an express train to Heathrow (and in particular Terminal 4) I decided to leave my bag at the train station and will pick it up on my way out of town. Sounds complicated and it probably is.

Saturday morning. I got up about 6;40 am and find I just can’t shake this weird dream I had had last night. I mean it was so vivid and so real. I had come to London to go to school and there were these 14 other people in the big room and we were all sitting in these really tiny desks; and these were people from all over the world and we didn’t know each. And the dream just stranger and stranger. . . .

School in London - Week 3

September 18, 2005.

Relaxed today – well sort of. There’s a lot of work coming up in the next week and a half, though and we can’t afford to start feeling smug about any of this. And in fact some of us do take this very seriously – in fact our group met this afternoon for the second Sunday in a row now. We spent a little over an hour at the Starbucks across from Green Park station, going over the next couple of days worth of lesson plans – what we can do at this stage though is severely limited by our lack of knowledge of the students – as well as talking about the third written assignment, which is due on Friday.

Monday. A bit of a hectic day today. One of the tutors was out sick and Annie had to fill in for the second hour of input (lectures of a sort) and we spent much of the morning meeting in our TP groups talking about this week. Later we were informed that although we had timetabled our class plans in each group through Thursday, there was some concern among the tutors that some of us had not taught a wide enough variety of lesson types (speaking, reading, grammar, etc.) so we have to put our Thursday plan on hold until we get clarification on who needs to do what. I am scheduled to teach on Thursday and have not done any reading lessons as of yet so I suspect I am one who may have to readjust. We’ll see.

This  problem highlights one a couple of the occasionally confusing elements of the course here. One is that there is no long-term plan available to the student, a plan that would provide you with what you needed to do and when so you could plan accordingly. What we wind up doing is planning maybe 48 hours in advance of the lesson, which of course reduces the amount of creative input for that particular lesson. And closely tied to that is the fact that we have to teach every type of lesson, something which would not be an issue if we had a set schedule. In fact for the first full week of teaching we had a set schedule provided for us. While we all appreciate the need to teach on our own and to develop the abilities to do so, one wonders do we need to develop the skill to work with only 48 hours notice, as it were?

Something else we have to be a bit concerned about is the student turnover. We first began to notice this is our previous class group (mid-intermediate level students) when every day we were getting a significant shift in the number of students, and in students leaving the class joining the class, etc.  Today we met our new class of elementary (2nd level) students. Last week we had started observing them while they were with the previous group of teacher trainees and right away noticed the few number of students attending although a much higher number had apparently enrolled for the course. Today we had 11 students enrolled – way too much for this small classroom – but only 4 showed up and of that four 2 were new. One, a man from Chile, said at the end of the class that it was too difficult for him and he wasn’t going to come back. So it will be interesting to see what the class is like today

Anyway, the upshot is that one can hardly plan with any certainty on the number of students (a bit critical in construction Lps which are dependent on groupwork or pairwork) but even more importantly one cannot count on any constancy or consistency in what any given group of students may or may not know at that time. It is very frustrating. We heard through the student grapevine late in the day that one of the other trainees in another group in our class was actually shouting at his students to get them to understand! If true this does not bode well, certainly for him, but for many others as well and points to a whole new set of problems facing us in the next week or so.

I keep saying “the week or so” because by a week from Wednesday all my teaching will be done and my written assignments handed in. I like the sound of that, frankly.  

So after class  the five of us in our group talked for a bit about the students and the challenges were are now faced with. We then moved down to the bar in the basement of the school and talked about the LPs for Tuesday and Wednesday. 

Long days ahead yet.

Tuesday. I taught my 5th session today. It went OK and I passed but still I have some weak points to work on: my “teacher talk” is coming down and continues to do so, also  my writing, particularly on the board has shown significant improvement, but I need to work on maker my instructions for various tasks clearer and to be more attentive for errors to make the necessary corrections in class.

Ate by myself at home. Youceff is gone of course, he returned to Algeria last weekend, Sylvia the Italian lawyer has to go home on a family emergency and will probably not be back until this weekend. Jackie is hit-and-miss for dinner so it was just me. Worked until about 10;30 or so.

Wednesday. Another very busy day, which may have accounted for why I did not sleep very well; woke up about 2;30 or so and could not get back to sleep so got out of bed and starting in on my lesson plan at about 4 am. Although I did not teach there was still plenty to do: get ready for my next teaching practice which will be tomorrow. I’m going to rely on the overhead projector for much of my board work – it is really quite easy to make corrections on the board but using the OHP – so I need to prep all those materials and of course get my handouts ready and I still need to finalize the structure, the design if you will, of my LP. 

I observed my last experienced teacher for the course (we had to do three and write up our notes) and afterwards met with another of our tutors, Ben, to get his feedback from my LP ideas. I then scooted off to meet the group in the bar in the school basement to talk about the next written assignment (no. 3). Sophie was kind enough to have bought drinks for everyone and I found an Old Speckled Hen waiting for me when I got there,

After our regular group meeting broke up about 4:45 or so I spent some time in the library and then I went to Kinko’s to get my transparencies printed out. (I burn my documents for class onto a CD and then take the disc to Kinko’s which is really quite close to the school, about a 5 or 6-minute walk, and use their work station to print out what I need. The school’s print center is antiquated and the computers are buggy.) I returned to the school and to the library for a bit looking for a couple of things for our next assignment and I then went to Starbucks to check email. The place was packed so I decided to just head back to Willesden Green. 

Since I had no intention of eating at home that evening I stopped at Shish and read the Guardian while I sipped a glass of trebbiano d’abruzzo and ate a nice relaxing meal.  My landlady had sent me a text message early in the day asking if I was going to be there for dinner, probably hoping I would say no so she wouldn’t have to cook for just one, and I said no sorry. I ate at Shish in Willesden Green. There is a Turkish restaurant just down the street which I may try later this week. 

Thursday. I taught my 6th session today. I woke up early – probably about 2:30 although I didn’t get up and start working until a bit after 4 am. Anyway, I worked on finalizing my lesson plan for the day and headed into the city. It was rainy pretty much all day – really the first “bad” weather we’ve had since I arrived here. The day went very well and I had a good day of teaching. This was the last of our 40-minute classes. Beginning Friday (and for me Monday) we will start teaching for 60 minutes each. I did a little work in library after our regular late afternoon group meeting and then headed for home. I ate with the family this evening – or rather they ate with me since they usually do not eat with the students. Anyway, I had a very nice conversation with Soodabeh’s son Eissa, who is half-Iranian and half-Iraqi but was born in the UK. (Soodabeh is my landlady.) He is quite sharp, very intelligent and clearly well read, particularly about affairs in the middle east but also in his own country as well. Not a day goes by when I don’t learn something new and different about the world from someone who has seen parts of it I have never been to – and not as a tourist but as someone who is plugged into those other parts in some profound ways. For example, Eissa is Shiite Iraqi (on his father’s side) and he expressed grave concern over the future of Iraq as things presently stand. So we had a nice dinner of rice and chile con carne and great conversation.

Friday. Fall is most definitely in the air. Coolish nights now and chilly mornings but sunny skies and felt a bit like Vermont. With the onset of cooler weather I slept very well last night – but also because I had just finished teaching practice session and I am always very relaxed after that. I suppose the tension and suspense (am I going to pass, that sort of thing) before class just evaporated leaving me a bit drained. Anyway, I felt great in the morning and had a good day at school.

Our lectures are a bit less now in the morning session as more time is given to allowing us to finish our various assignments and getting our “portfolios” in order. This is a large binder which each of us was given when we first began class. Inside are all our records, lessons, tutor observations about our teaching sessions, everything, and serve as the basis upon which we are given a PASS or a FAIL. 

So our tutors wanted to make sure everyone has theirs in order because things will be happening pretty quickly next week. The senior assessor from Cambridge University will come and spend the day going over all of our portfolios and observing the “observers” (our tutors) during our teaching practice sessions. By the end of Wednesday (my last teaching day) I should be pretty much finished.  That’s my hope, although I’m also resigned to having to resubmit a lesson. Anyway, it won’t be long now.

I just observed two members of my group today. We have been given the option of picking one afternoon when we are not teaching to just take off – there are no more observations of experienced teachers so they are giving us a bit of a holiday. I – like most others – thought NOT to take today off and spend it watching how a 60-minute session goes. Also I have to teach Monday AND Wednesday so it works much better for me to take Tuesday afternoon off to finalize my lesson for Wednesday. Anyway, after class our group plus members of a couple of the other groups got together in the bar in the basement of the school and had a couple of beers and talked about of lots of things other than school. This is truly an amazing group. For example, I spoke at some length with Estelle who is from the London area and after school is planning on going to Mexico to teach but she wants to eventually move to America – her boyfriend lives in San Fransisco – and settle there. She was quite eloquent in explaining to me why she likes America – much of it has to do with our political system and how it seems there is still so much more room for the individual to have a say in what does and does not happen than perhaps she has experienced in her own country. 

I eventually said good-by to the group and headed to Miso’s, the noodle bar near Piccadilly Circus for dinner, and then took the tube home.

So far so good.

Saturday. Much of today I will spend putting together the items for my Monday lesson – it all about restaurants and reading menus so it should be fun. I just need to find some photos (online I hope and from magazines and newspapers) as well as some objects themselves. 

Richard and his wife asked me back for dinner this evening – they had me over for dinner last Saturday -- and I can’t resist. The company is superlative, the conversation always enlightening, the food is delicious and the wine wonderful. It will be a nice way for me to relax and get out of my “dorm room” for a couple of hours or so. More importantly they are really very nice people and a pleasure to be with.

School in London - Week 2

Sunday 11 September 2005.  

Katrina has fallen off the front page of the papers here – even the tabloids, which are notorious for their graphic full page front page photos and their screaming headlines. Much of this past week’s stories have focused on the more than 100 Britons who were/are trapped in New Orleans and vicinity. And of course as a few have managed to get back home they have become the center of media attention.

This past week has been very trying for everyone, and I mean everyone. The pace has continued to quicken and each passing day seems to demand more and more of our attention for an even greater number of details, which we have to somehow sort out. If that sounds vague I do apologize so let me try and sort it all out for you.

At first I thought it was just me that was starting to regress. I had my second observed teaching session Monday and it began very well but after a 10 minutes I just slipped right away from my prepared lesson plan and it went downhill from there. I finished the lesson OK and some of the students actually got the point of lesson, but a couple of them clearly did not. The rest of the day did not sit well and the intensity of what we have to do – meetings, discussions about lesson plans, coordinating plans, photocopying, putting resources together all sound quite distant when viewed on paper but when placed within a severely constrained timeframe you feel rushed and almost as if things are just about at the edge of being out of control. The bright spot here was I did in fact PASS. Go figure.

OK, it still sounds vague. Try this.

When we began our course we were given a timetable – day-by-day – of what we had to do and when we had to do it: Mornings we would have 2 lectures at a give time and the material to be discussed, and afternoons we would have our teaching practice. That ended Wednesday. While we still know our lecture schedule for the mornings beginning on Tuesday we were given a 20 minutes in the morning to start planning on our own the timetable and lecture schedule for the remainder of the week (Thursday and Friday). So while we are in the midst of finalizing midweek’s lesson plans and finishing our first written assignment before Friday we now have to plan, coordinate and prepare for two days’ worth of teaching. Oh, and on the day when one is not teaching we are usually assigned – at this point – to observe an experienced teacher for 2 hours in the afternoon and take notes, join in whatever. 

Tuesday we had class in the morning of course and given a bit of time and some direction as to where we needed to go with our Thursday and Friday timetables – since we were now responsible for setting those up, and a pretty intimidating responsibility it is too. I along with two of my team members are teaching on Wednesday so I also had to get ready for that as well. By late in the day we had pretty much decided on who was going to teach when and what sort of lesson (grammar, vocabulary, listening skills, etc.). I will also be teaching Thursday as well. 

Wednesday. I had a good day of teaching and that was a relief after Monday. The group is working late in the day to finalize up the timetable for the last two days of this week – our tutor Annie had some concerns about Friday’s lessons so there was some adjustment there. Christina and I have a linked lesson so we spent about two hours this evening, until the library closed, setting out our outlines – actually she was giving me suggestions and directions without which I’m not sure I could have done my first grammar lesson at all. 

Thursday the day went very well – perhaps because it was an absolutely gorgeous day, clear blue sky mid-70s, or maybe because there was just that proverbial hint of Fall in the air inside Green Park, or maybe because it was the halfway mark of teaching practice for me. Whatever it was it came as a palpable relief, at least for me but I sensed in others as well. 

Thursday evening I did eat at home – I had missed the previous two evening meals -- and had a great time with our little “dinner group”: Jackie (China) and Youceff (Algeria), both studying English at Intl. House and now Sylvia, an Italian lawyer who once studied English at IH but is now here working and presently looking for an apartment (“flat”).

Anyway, we had a fairly late day again today: we need to make headway on our second written assignment which is due Monday – and then prepare our LP for Monday – it is our second day of unobserved teaching and will involve all of us; 23 minutes apiece just like the very first day which was also unobserved. We also need to timetable the rest of next week (“Week 3”).  

The group by and large has been feeling jittery about this week so the weekend can't come soon enough. Still we make the class changeover beginning next Monday when we move to an elementary level group to teach, which will be more challenging. But the prep work is beginning even as we finish this present group of students. 

Friday was a good day (pretty much) all around for our group. We made the handover in the morning and the books we will be using are clearly better organized than our previous ones so that’s a bit of good news but the language proficiency of “new” students is definitely below our previous group – but hey that was to be expected. We then had our first one-to-one sit-down with Annie to talk about where we are, how we are doing and, I suppose where might be going during the last half of the course. I need to work on my instructions and, as you might suppose, I need to reduce my “teacher talk” – since this is a course that is not content driven, like say a university lecture course, but is student-drive and the focus must be on the students talking and not the teacher. I also need to work on my handwriting which I began this afternoon. I am now practicing my penmanship regularly and have made some serious adjustments in how I write on the whiteboard (“greaseboard”) in the classroom. A very important gap I need to fill. 

After our midweek meetings with our central tutor we worked as a group on timetabling Week 3 at least through Thursday and we then began prepping for Assignment 2 which is due Monday. Sunday afternoon we will meet at the Starbucks near Green Park tube station to spend an hour or so getting ready for our Monday morning kickoff – and we also hope to make some headway on preparing for Tuesday, our first observed teaching practice with the new group. So it is shaping up to be a very busy weekend for sure.

After our Friday session I headed over to the Apple Store to check email and take a peek at the new iPod Nano – which is tres cool indeed. 1/5 the size of the original iPod it holds as many songs (1000) but with a color screen! 

I then walked down Regent Street to Piccadilly circus – at dusk it was all lit up and the masses were out in force. I headed down Haymarket street and stopped for dinner at this great noodle bar, Miso – I went there last weekend and enjoyed it immensely. Saturday I’ve been invited to join Richard and his wife for dinner at their home in West Hampstead which is just a tube stop away for me and am looking forward to that. Sunday I will head back to Shish, located right here in Willesden Green. I went there twice last weekend and once during this past week.

I got home about 8:30 pm – delays on the tube wouldn’t you know -- and chatted with out “dinner group” as they were finishing their meal, although Jackie was still out and about. After dinner Youceff asked for a copy of the photo I took of him and he brought me a little memory card he carries with him. I plugged into my computer and after I copied the photo onto his card he showed me photos of his family and winter in Algiers last year (lots of snow, pretty unusual he said) and the last festival of Ramadan when they slaughter a ram and have a big party. It was very kind of him. He has invited Sue and I to visit him and his family in Algiers and I said we would try and do just that after we get back to Italy. Since he finished his language course today and heads home tomorrow we said good-bye. 

A pretty good week. I said good-bye to a new friend from a part of the world where I always thought Americans were unwanted, I am halfway through this course, and I am learning to write for the first time since I was a child. Pretty good indeed.


School in London - Week 1

Sunday 4 September 2005. 

Before I say anything about me or my time in London I just want to tell you that what is happening in south central US, and in New Orleans in particular, is a major focus of attention here. It is front-page news to be sure: “10,000 dead”, “Third Word America”, and even the staid Financial Times of London’s headline today reads “’Handle the goddam crisis’ Bush told”.  It seems to be the general consensus, at least among the respectable newspapers that the present administration is patently inept or fundamentally uncaring. Tragic indeed.

It has been a very busy week for me and based on my experience I will probably just be updating the blog weekly.

Wednesday – our group met at about 8:40 am to brainstorm for a bit before we went to class at 9:00.  After 2 lectures (punctuated by a short break) we had lunch at 12 and returned by 1 to start setting up our room. In fact this would become routine, since for the next week and a half we would be teaching the same group in the same room (we met the group for the first time Weds. afternoon). From 1:15-3:15 we had our first teaching practice (or TP as they call it in school), and this was unobserved. We had been given the materials, the timetable, pretty much what we needed to do this had we each taught for 23 minutes. It is not clear as to why we were “unobserved”, and I may just ask that question this week. Anyway, we have to successfully complete 6 hours of teaching practice and two hours of observation of experienced teachers.

Afterwards we had feedback time amongst ourselves from 3:15-3:45. We also decided to start meeting s a group every day after our scheduled feedback session, so we now also meet every day from 4:00-5:00.  It was during this end of the day session that we get feedback from each on the next day’s lesson plan (LP) and brainstorm ideas, etc. This has been one of the smartest we have made as a group, and has I think, been of a great help to us all.

Thursday and Friday, after our morning lectures we began our “observed” teaching sessions which will form the bulk of our teaching practice. Our tutor (this week it was Annie) sat in the back of the classroom and, well, observes. She takes notes, reads through our lesson plans (which we gave her before class began) and then afterwards, from 3:15-3:45 we have her feedback. The half-hour feedback session focuses on the three students who taught that day. Each student begins with a self-assessment, followed by critiques from each member of the group (we have to observe and take notes on each other) and then Annie provides her input.

Thursday was my first time out and fortunately I went third in line. It went well, I was very nervous, as were we all, but we all did fine. Friday I was off. Christina was the only one of the group who actually taught all three days.

After our feedback session with Annie we met until after 5:00 pm. We are also slated to meet Sunday at 5:00 pm outside Victoria Station to prep for Monday. I lead off Monday and while my lesson plan is in place I could use the feedback before the Monday AM rush. I also hope to find a Kinko’s somewhere in central London where I can do my photocopying and prepping for my class, since the school library is not open on the weekend. The fact that the library is only open from M-F is my only complaint to date about International House.

Our group consists of Kaye, Sophie and Richard, all three from the UK and Christina, a Greek-American and me. We range in ages from late 20s to, well, me I guess, late 50s. We seem to get along well and play nicely together. Each one brings a particular strength to the group which every day becomes more important: Sophie’s hard work and attention to detail, Kaye’s nuclear brainstorming which produces absolutely grand ideas, Richard’s insight and perceptiveness, and Christina’s relaxed demeanor and her previous experience teaching English to Greeks, all produce thoughtful and helpful ideas and directions as to where any one of us may want to go with a plan. I cannot emphasize enough how generous everyone is with their time and with themselves.

Smiles and laughter from a group of trusted comrades (“mates”) after a long day of perhaps just trying to figure out how you’re going to get by the next day are vital to our mental health and emotional well being.  And this is a group for laughing. Kaye, she seems to be laughing constantly but out of a sincere depth of sense of honor at laugh, even when she is feeling anxious – like the day before her first time in front of a class -- she could not help but laugh, make light of her situation and get on with it. Just when I think that Sophie, who seems to well-stand the value of a smile given sincerely as almost a gift, just when you think she must have run out of something to smile about in pops another one! And while Richard is less likely to burst out laughing on the same scale as Kaye, his smile is almost as wide as his face and he is not afraid to use it. And shy Christina; she doesn’t say much but will get a smile on her face, and the smile will grow like a time-lapse photo of a flower opening up and then BAM! she will break out into a great laugh, which becomes really infectious and naturally everyone else joins in.

If you have to work in a group this is a group to be with and certainly the folks you want to be working with under these circumstances.

NB. I did find a Kinko’s open 24/7 on Chancery Lane, just across the street from the Chancery Lane tube station. The good news is there is a 24/7 Kinko’s very near the Green Park station which I use to get to and from school every day and is probably a 10 minute walk from school. I shall plan on using these as needed on weekends since our library is closed. It is also a bit more relaxed and less harried to make copies at Kinko’s than in our library in any event, what with other students rushing about – like me - trying to get their work done before class or before their next scheduled whatever.


Tuesday in Sicily; Segesta and Selinunte

[Tuesday 19 April 2005]

Today was our big day for ancient ruins. First up was Segesta. Located a short drive from Scopello, this unique archeological site was situated in an absolutely stunningly beautiful location. 




We then headed over to the western coast, towards Trapani to climb the mountain to the village of Erice, a spectacular little city in the clouds. Unfortunately that’s exactly where it was that morning so we backtracked a bit and then headed south to another of the more well-known archeological sites, the ancient city of Selinunte, on the southern coast.






Monday in Sicily

[Monday 18 April 2005]

After breakfast, Gianni, our host, took us in his car and gave a tour first of Scopello, which was once just a small fortified farm overlooking one of the now numerous defunct “tonnaras” (tuna processing plants) and is now a resort community catering to local Palmeritanians getting away for the weekend to northern Europeans on self-catering holidays. 

We drove into Castellammare del Golfo, where he was born and raised and worked for many years as a banker. He showed us the highlights of this beautiful seaside community but also the places which figured prominently in his youth as well as where his mother had been born and the building which had at one time housed his father’s furniture factory before he left for the US. 

We spent the rest of the day relaxing from our trip and that evening at a local agriturismo.

Castellammare del Golfo



Snow day!

Began snowing early this AM and turned to a very unrelenting storm about 7, very heavy and wet snow. Traffic was rather chaotic in our apartment complex, probably indicative of everywhere else, those few folks who had chains and could get them on were fairly successful in getting out but it seemed the majority stayed in. We left at 8:15 to catch the 8:23 bus, and found several locals waiting as well. Bit by bit the others drifted away from the stop as no bus showed up. We waited until about ten till 9 and then headed back home and checked with our landlord to see what was happening in town. (We could tell from our apartment window that there was very little traffic moving on at least one of the main roads around Siena.)

Alva, our superintendent, said that nothing was running so we decided this would be a snow day – in Italy of all places. About 10:30 we got restless and decided we would try to walk down a shortcut we thought we had seen the day before from the bus. Sure enough we found it and it got us down the hill and onto a main thoroughfare but the snow was really coming down, and to get to the city would have meant walking in the street with the trucks and the snowplows so back home we went. On the way we saw our bus and then decided to try and catch it the next time around which we did. (The first time I’ve ever seen city buses with chains.)

We got to school and found that only three instructors had showed up but one of them was Egina our instructor and we had a great last hour of work. After class we stopped at a local Osteria for soup and this is one place we can certainly recommend. The food was creative, delicious and very reasonably priced: “Boccon del Prete” (Via S. Pietro, 17, ph & fax: 0577-280388). Since this is near school we will certainly be returning for lunch occasionally.

We then headed back to get the bus home, returning to our apartment about 5. While we were doing homework (that’s right kids, homework, “comptiti”) Roberto called to ask if our boxes had arrived (they have my tripod and sound equipment). We have two interviews scheduled for Saturday, one in Prato and I believe one in Florence, the second being an interview with an organic farmer whom we will join afterwards for a trip to watch another organic farmer give him a lesson in how to prepare sausage (“salsicce”) in the old style and will film that as well.

After I got off the phone with Roberto I called FedEx to check the status of our boxes and was informed they should be delivered tomorrow. We’ll see,

Snow

It snowed much of last night with thunder and lightening while we were eating, around 8 PM. Snowed again this AM as we headed into Siena for another day of school, the roads were very slushy and slippery as well and briefly heavy snow while we were waiting for the bus to go home. Still the sun always seems to return quickly and the snow doesn’t really last long on the ground here. Anyway, we are taking the bus pretty much every day now and it works out great – no jockeying for the diminishing number of parking spaces (or so it seems to us) and it’s pretty stress free and gets us right into the city and back home again in a flash.

After class we returned home and had antipasti and a glass of wine, did our homework and then it’s back into town for a 5 PM lecture at our school on the historical rivalry between Siena and Florence.

Dinner at home with leftovers and we tried a type of flat bean from Morocco. Very good and quite like the Italian flat beans which we used to see in New England some years back.

School begins

First day of school began on the heels of our very first ever snow in Tuscany. We woke up a bit after 6 AM since we had an early call for class, and after coffee and a light breakfast headed to the bus stop to catch the No. 1 bus into the city’s centro storico. Usually school begins at 9 but since this was the beginning of a new session, new students had to arrive by 8 in order to get oriented and of course to deepen our general confusion.

After taking our placement tests we found ourselves with a lively group who had been together for at least three weeks, so we jumped in apparently at week four.

Anyway, the class is made up of three Japanese women, two Australian girls, one Swiss woman and a young Dutch woman whose last name is "VandenBurg", and of course Sue and I. Our instructor for most of the day’s lessons is Egina (named, she says, after the small island directly across from the Greek city of Athens) and for our one-hour afternoon session we have Serena. One nice surprise came when we saw one of our two great instructors from 1999, Chicca, married now with a little “bambino”. She still has one of the prettiest smiles you’ve ever seen, and a personality to match. But then one of the first things you might notice about nearly all of the instructors here is just how friendly, genuinely friendly people they seem to be – and it must take an enormous amount of patience to do this kind of work for sure.

Anyway, the two Australians and two of the Japanese finish this week and, presumably, next week, we will a new group of students who have been assigned to our “level”.

Like most other language schools in Italy Dante Alighieri school (“scuola”) uses the immersion technique, wherein the only language spoken, even for beginners, is Italian. And since there is very little deviation from this approach one must focus intensely on what is going on in class all the time. Aside from the first day’s placement exam there are no tests and no grades. One just has to keep up since you are after all in Italy and cannot escape the language even if you were so inclined.

After an intense and head-empting first day we headed back to the bus stop after a stop at the UPIM department store and grocery to pick up a few additional items for the apartment and for dinner (like “carciofi alla romana”, artichokes in the Roman style). One positive note: they ran out of textbooks so no homework for us this evening.

Ciao for now.

Day one

We woke up to our first full day in Siena at about 9:30 AM and by 11:30 we are on our way to the COOP (pronounced, we are told, “cope”), Siena’s largest supermarket, which has changed quite a bit in the last six years. Parking is all under cover but now they also have a parking garage located above the market as well as the original one on the lower level (below the store), and there are a number of other small shops scattered on the periphery of the market itself. You get the shopping cart in the garage using a 1 euro piece to unblock the cart. They also have two sizes of carts to choose from as well, and we chose the larger (double or doppia) rather than the singola (single). I just thought you should know.

Since the COOP is not open on Sundays just about everyone in central Italy was there this morning but we enjoyed the madhouse effect since we were in no hurry. In fact by the time we left about an hour or so later, the garage was half empty (or half full for you optimists) and the checkout lines were noticeably shorter as well. One small glitch however is that the COOP does not accept non-Italian credit cards – or so we learned from our cashier when we tried to use our VISA card. (In the centro storico next to UPIM, a large department store chain in Italy is a good size Conad grocery store, also part of a chain and they do take credit cards. We will come to use this one often I think.)

Before we started shopping I noticed that there was a TIM (Telecom Italia) store right there so we could purchase additional minutes for our phone (our phone uses a TIM SIM card) since the instructions given us by Telestial before we left the US did not in fact seem to work to allow us to recharge our phone’s minutes. And neither did their instructions work for changing the voice prompts to English. And speaking of Telestial they failed us yet again. After I purchased 50 euros of minutes the fellow at the store told me – through the not-so-impenetrable language barrier – that it would take about 5 minutes for the new minutes to show up when I dialed the customer service number to check on my account. Well I called about a half later, before we left the store and nothing had changed. So I went back to the TIM guy after we checked out and before we left and he told me the phone was not registered. Now before we left, Telestial had sent us a packet of information, and one was a notice that we needed to email them with a copy of my passport to register the phone, which I did and assumed everything was fine. My words to you: never assume anything when traveling. Come to find out Telestial did not register the phone.

In any case the TIM guy registered the phone for us and we are now set.

So after the COOP outing we headed home and unloaded the groceries. We got a voice mail today from FedEx with a number we need to call probably – we hope – to schedule delivery of our boxes. Good news in any event that we’ve heard from FedEx at last. But now we need a fax number for them to send us a form which we fill out, sign and fax back to them, apparently so we can arrange to get our boxes. (In fact as it turned out we only needed to fax a copy of Steve’s passport as well as the tracking numbers. We did that Monday afternoon but as of late Tuesday we have not yet heard from FedEx.)

We had dinner with Roberto Bechi at Antica Osteria Da Divo (Via Francese), a wonderful ristoranti which we discovered back in December of 1999 and which, as it turns out is Roberto’s favorite place to eat as well. We met Roberto at 7:30 and spent most of the evening going over the details of our upcoming videotape sessions of local Tuscans. The general theme here is to show a side of the Tuscany few people get a chance to see, the folks who make up this wonderful country, who are behind the shops, the stores, behind the salespeople and promotional materials and marketers, the people who are the true heart and soul of this land, who are a very real slice of the history of Tuscany.

Arrival

We were met at the gate by a representative from Renault and after we signed a few more documents for our brand-new Laguna, “Johnny” gave us a quick tour of the car and we were off. (Short-term leasing is certainly the way to go if you are going to be using a car for more than two and a half weeks.)

We thought about taking a leisurely drive north from Rome to Siena by going up the coast (A12) instead of the Autostrada but in the end we opted to take the quickest route largely as a consequence of feeling somewhat tired -- plus we had to stop and get gas soon since Renault only provides enough petrol in the car at pickup (for safety reasons) and it was suggested that the nearest petrol station was on the ring road around Rome near the exit from Fiumicino so we off we went. After filling up we naturally got snarled in rush hour traffic – there is also major construction going on widening the ring road and we were pretty much in it up to our necks until we got off onto the A1 heading to Firenze.

We stopped at an Autogrill service plaza where we had a couple of panini’s and caffe and then stopped at another service plaza about a half hour later so we could take a short nap – really only a stretch and eye closure ceremony but it served to renew us for the final stage.

The A1 is in great shape, we made great time (of course the Germans and Austrians in their large German cars made even better time as they whizzed past us) and cost a little more than 8 euros for the trip; overall it took us three and a half hours but that was with three stops, two of which were perhaps about 30 minutes each.

We got off at the Sinalunga-Siena-Bettole exit and followed the signs to Siena. This section of the road has been widened to 4-lane since we were here in June of 2001, although a couple of short stretches are still “in process.”

We found Le Meridiane with no problem – the streets and turns came back to us rather quickly and as it turned out we had directions – and were met by Alva, the caretaker. She speaks virtually no English but is a very kind and amiable soul. Our packages from FedEx had not arrived but we set about unpacking what we had brought with us and then crashed for a couple of hours.

After a nap we changed clothes and headed into the centro storico (the historical center) of Siena for the rest of the evening. It was chilly but clear and we couldn’t help but comment on how at home we felt. Although it had been nearly four years since we were even in Siena and nearly seven since we had spent any time hear everything came back as it had been yesterday: the streets, the alleyways, the shops and ristoranti (some new some changed, some gone), it felt, feels wonderful.

We found an Internet café, part of the Internet Train, a chain of Internet shops throughout Italy, near the Piazza del Campo, (on Via Pantaneto, 54 (ph 0577 247 460) and after speaking with one of the very friendly and helpful staff purchased a user’s card (as students we received a discount as well) of two hours’ time (and which we could use throughout the country) and sat down to send off a few emails. Internet Train also has a bank of computers at Via di Citta, 121 as well.)

We then stopped at the Consorzio Agrario Siena (one of the two largest market inside city center) where bought some water, some bananas and some ricciarelli cookies to take home with us; tomorrow, Saturday we will do our major shopping. We then headed to an early dinner -- it was only about 7 PM-- at Osteria Le Logge (Via del Porrione 33, 53100 Siena, ph 0577 48013, email is osterialelogge@tin.it). We had eaten at Le Logge twice before, in 1998 and again in 1999 and not only has the food gotten better but the service was in a word, superb. All the dishes were very creative and well prepared.

We had a quiet walk back to where our car was parked, near the fortezza. Walking through the silent streets of Siena reminded both of us why we come back here again and again, you can almost feel your peace of mind. For myself, of all the places I have ever lived or visited, large city or small, I have never felt as comfortable or as safe as when I am in Siena. It sounds like a cliché but there you have it.

Travel day

We left early Thursday morning for Providence train station and after about a forty minute wait boarded Amtrak’s regional service 171 for Newark Intl airport where we arrived a bit before one o’clock in the afternoon. Although we were about 30 minutes late we still had plenty of time before our flight and it was a stress-free way to get to the airport. We had lunch, got checked in and went through security—which was also smooth for us since we were not one of those chosen at random for what appeared to be thorough examination, if you get my drift.

We boarded Alitalia flight 645 nonstop to Rome at 4:45 and took off about 5:40. (They only fly non-stop Newark to Rome on I believe Thursdays and Fridays at present.) A bit bumpy in places but we arrived on time at 7:40 Friday morning in Rome, and were greeted by sun, slightly overcast and warm temps, in the 50s. (We have got to start using metric on this trip and stop translating everything back into our former frame of reference.)

A word about Alitalia, more of a question really which someone reading this might be able to answer. Why does a major airline like Alitalia originating from a country noted for great food and wine and warm and friendly people, have what in our opinion is by far and away the absolute worst wood aloft – not to mention the plonk they pass off as being so-called wine? And mind you in our experience this is certainly not a recent development for the airline. And they hire such surly, unhappy attendants, who were, curiously nearly all men, nearly all of whom came across as if they should have been playing soccer for Milan or Roma rather than catering to a bunch of cattle shuttling back and forth over the Atlantic.

OK I’ve got that out of my system. In fact all that was just a minor annoyance and could in no way lessen the impact of where we were heading and what we soon going to be doing with our lives for the couple of months.

Today is the day

It's here at last. The day we begin our sojourn to Paradise -- well perhaps that's a bit strong but then again I'm not sure.

Every year millions of tourists flock to Italy in wave after wave seeking something, peace of mind or to touch a bit of the ancient past with which they are somehow curiously very intimate. Maybe, just maybe, a few (or more than a few) of those "lost souls" find that "something" in the form of a place which seems to embody the essence of Italy, the history, the people, the food, the spirit of the country and they cannot let it go at just a wonderful bit of entertainment for two weeks, eventually coming to the realization that they must go back again and again and again.

We feel comfortable there, in Italy, and even though we know very few people those few have been generous, gracious, warm and hospitable to a fault, and even though we have no family there and can barely speak a few words of Italian, in fact

"just to enough to keep the locals amused/
and ourselves confused."

So we head out today, stay with family in Massachusetts tonight and then fly out for Rome tomorrow. The bags are pretty much packed, the house is getting put in shape for our departure and we cannot wait to go.

Checked with FedEx this AM and our two boxes of household goods have arrived at Malpensa airport in Milan. If all goes well they may in fact be delivered tomorrow or Friday, but almost certainly before we arrive at Le Meridiane Friday PM. If all goes well.

And you know if it doesn't go well, it the packages get hung up in some bizarre customs thing or whatever, SO BE IT. It's a small thing really, annoying yes, but in the scheme of things and compared to what we are about to undertake really very inconsequential.

The school

In June of 1999 we took a 2-week Italian language course at the Societa Dante Alighieri Comitato di Siena and had a wonderful time. The method of teaching was very intense but equally fun as well. No tests, no grades, we just had to be prepared every day for class (which ran from 9-1 M-F) or we would have been hopelessly lost. We had to be very focused because from the very moment we walked into class no English, or any other language was spoken but Italian. And all of us were beginners, some 12 students in the class: 3 Aussies, 2 Swiss, 1 German, 1 Japanese, 1 Brit and 4 North Americans. The results of just 2 weeks of work were pretty amazing; we could certainly understand a great deal of the language, although our conversational skills were still woefully inadequate. It just whetted our appetites.

Anyway, we enoyed ourselves so much that we decided to do it again but we wanted to spend far more time learning the language so that we felt more comfortable in everyday, casual conversation as well as honing our reading skills. That meant looking for a program that was longer and would give us the skills we were looking for, in the right location (for us that meant Siena), and that didn't cost an arm and a leg.

In Siena there are two major universities: the Universita di Siena and the Universita per Stranieri di Siena (the University for Foreigners). While the latter school does provide significant language instruction, we wanted the more relaxed, easy-going atmosphere of a private language school -- no tests, no grades, no pressure just performance in the classroom. There are several smaller schools in Tuscany, such as the Cultura Italiana in the Maremma (they also have schools in Arezzo and Bologna as well) and Il Sasso in Montepulciano, but we wanted to be closer to the city so our choices narrowed down to essentially four: Dante Alighieri, the Scuola Leonardo di Vinci, Saena Iulia, and Center for Study Abroad.

Well we opted for Dante Alighieri. We have such fond memories of those two weeks in the summer of 1999, largely because of our two instructors, Chiara and Chicca were absolutely fantastic and made the experience truly memorable.

So it's off to the old school for us. The program we have enrolled in is a long-term intensive program of 20 hours per week (4 hours per day M-F), for 8 weeks. Afternoons and weekends are free. The school is located very close to the Piazza del Campo and have upgraded their facilities in the bargain, adding a snack bar and Internet access terminal as well.

If you are looking for programs in Italy and haven't yet quite decided where you might want to be located, consider starting with the Study Abroad website. They have an extensive listing of schools, including North American university study abroad programs, with very brief descriptions and links to their respective websites. Most importantly they do provide locations to help you narrow your choices. Also take a look at Shawguides for language study.

As for study materials you might want to check out Multilingual Books where they offer software for your computer to help in studying Italian, and there's Transparent Language who also offers a wide variety of software as well.

Details, accommodations

Staying in Italy for three months presented us with quite a challenge. On the one hand we were fortunate to be staying in one place, in this case in Siena for 8 weeks, but that meant it would be doubly difficult to find a place we could call home and yet not pay the normal tourist rate.

While there are a great many rentals generally available for the tourist in the Siena area – it is after all on the very edge of Chianti – the cost for two months of a modest apartment would have been astronomical. We were not privy to the local classifieds, and we did not attempt to go through a local broker. Even brokers in the US were unable (or unwilling) to help us find a place to fit our needs at a discounted cost for such a long rental period. So, given our limitations both in language and units available in the area we quickly became aware of the hurdles facing us in our search.

Although the language school we would be attending is located inside the city walls and not far from the Piazza del Campo, we ruled out staying inside the "centro storico”, the historical center, since few long-term rentals were available to us and what we did find were very expensive.

In 1999 Sue and I took a 2-week language course in Siena (from the same school which we will be attending this winter and spring) and stayed in a wonderful apartment just a short bus ride from the city center. The name of the complex is Le Meridiane and we had such a wonderful time that I have actually recommended this place at least once on my Siena website. So we contacted Le Meridiane last summer and eventually negotiated a discounted price for our 8-weeks stay, as it turns out in the very same apartment we stayed in back in 1999: 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, a small but nice kitchen (none of the units have ovens) and a wonderful little terrace – great for doing homework and sipping wine in the afternoon, assuming the weather cooperates. They have ample parking and a bus stop not 100 mts from the apartment.

But Siena only accounts for slightly more than two-thirds of our trip, from February 18 to April 16. What’s next?

After school we head south for sunny Sicily! We hope to stay somewhere south of Naples for one night before continuing on to the small town of Villa San Giovanni, just north of Reggio di Calabria, where we will take the short ferry across the Straits of Messina to Sicily. From there we drive west to the other side of the island, to our apartment near Scopello, west of Palermo on the Golfo di Castellammare. We found this place online at Authentic Sicily, run by Gary Portuesi who lives in New York but still has family contacts in Sicily, which he puts to good use. We will be in Scopello from April 17 until April 24.

After a week spent in the sun we head back across the Straits of Messina and have several days to linger on our drive to northern Italy. On April 27 we check into our apartment at an agriturismo (working farm which rents out rooms and/or apartments) called Le Sorgive near Solferino, just south of Lake Garda and a bit west of Verona, just inside of Lombardia across from the Veneto. We found this particular rental in Karen Brown’s guide to B & Bs, like Rick Steves one of the more reliable guidebooks for places to stay in Italy. After a week at Le Sorgive we leave on May 4 head to Lake Orta, located northwest of Milan and just west of Lake Maggiore (where we stayed in September of 2001) for our final two nights of relxation and contemplation at the Hotel Villa Crespi in Orto San Giulio before catching a Delta flight out of Milan on May 6.

But I really don’t want to talk about leaving Italy.


Chihuly in the Japanese Garden

We returned to Meijer Gardens recently to finish off our tour of the Chihuly sculptures, this time focusing on the Japanese Garden. new take...