April 23 - Exploring St. Albans, new, old and the very old

We awoke to a gorgeous morning in Ellis fields; the garden at the rear of the building was lush and the small green common across from the front entrance was, well, green. The four us had a leisurely morning; Susie and I slept in until 8:30 before showering, dressing and coming to table for breakfast.  Though a group favorite, I steered clear of the porridge and honed in on fruit and cereal.

breakfast with Richard and Pauline, Ellis Fields
Richard and Pauline

back garden, Ellis Fields
common green, Ellis Fields



The original plan was to explore St. Albans and, if the weather held, to take the train into London and visit Kew Gardens. We were having such a wonderful time visiting this part of the greater London area that we decided to just relax and spend our time in and around St. Albans, leaving London to fend for itself.

We started off with a tour of the weekly open air market on the main street of St. Albans. It reminded both Susie and I of those many city markets we found so handy in Siena, Florence and Paris. Not just fresh fruits and vegetables but kitchen wares, clothing, and all sorts of bric-a-brac was available, much of it sold by vendors yelling out to no one in particular but hoping to get your attention. Unique marketing ploy indeed. 

Wednesday market, downtown St. Albans


memorial to the men from nearby streets who died in the First World War


Along the way I stopped into a Vodaphone store and picked put the cheapest unlocked phone they had (Samsung) along with a pay-as-you-go SIM card, both of which cost me less than £30. (We’re now set for future trips to Europe.) I then found a nearby Jessops camera shop and bought an extra battery for my camera. I was set. 

After a quick tour of the town center we scooted over to the abbey in time for their 11:30 tour. A fascinating architectural structure, representing a wide variety of church building styles over the centuries, the abbey consists of but a fraction of the original layout — many of the adjoining outlying buildings are long gone. And of course the fascinating thing, for me at any rate, is the abbey is built as well as a portion of St. Albans itself is built over the the ancient Roman town of Verulamium.

St. Albans cathedral, interior
Jeremy Newton, our guide, accurately described by one of our group as "irritatingly hesitant" 


stain glass at one end of the cathedral I believe this was a memorial to those countries that fought in the First World War - note the US flag on the far left

there is no crypt, we were told; the bodies are buried directly beneath the floor
"In memory of 
 Mrs. Martha Wildbore 
who died July 2nd, 1823 
Aged 58 years 
Also of Mr. Samuel Wildbore 
Husband of the above 
who died March 31st 1843 
Aged 78 years"
ceiling


tomb of Duke Humphrey


grate over Humphrey's tomb
After our tour of the abbey we drove to nearby Verlamium park (Verulamium was the Roman name for St. Albans) where we could stroll on a lush lawn now covering the ancient Roman city.  We walked through St.Michael’s church graveyard (built over a Roman temple) and across Watling Street to the Roman amphitheater; one of the few excavated portions of the old city.

Verulamium park


St. Albans abbey across Verulamium park

St. Michael's burial ground 
dressing room off the stage of the amphitheater

amphitheater
Some 15 minutes of strolling around the theater's ruins, we had pretty seen everything so we recrossed Watling street, skirted St, Michael’s and popped into the Verulamium Museum, at the edge of the park. We opted to forgo the museum and headed back out into the park park proper making our way to the Hypercaust, an enclosed bit of Roman mosaics on display (more are to be seen in the museum I’m told).

enclosure of the hypercaust
Roman mosaic inside the enclosure --  not the tunnel for floor heating in the upper left
After returning to the car we drove back into the town center, parked on the street and had a light lunch at a Jamie Oliver deli (connected to his Italian restaurant). The sandwiches were tasty and reasonably priced; we were duly impressed that 100% of the profits from the bottled water sold went to Water Aid.

The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing at Ellis Fields broken only by tea at 4pm. That evening we ate at a local restaurant Chez Mumtaj, a fusion of French and Indian food. The service was good and food deliciously different.

We soon found ourselves adjusting to life in England and easing into our journey.

22 April - Departure and Arrival

Following our 4:15 wake up call  we showered, dressed, grabbed our bags and by 5am were down in the lobby where we found our shuttle waiting to load us and take us to the airport. (Our driver seemed none to happy, though, and when he wasn't throwing the bags in the bag was focusing on developing his grunt.)

A half later we were pushing through the doors of Terminal E, found our way to the BA check-in, went right up tot he counter (no waiting). Made our way to security and since we were flying business class (a great way to use air miles) a few minutes later were were through the line and heading to the BA lounge for breakfast.

About half-past seven we made our way to gate 7 to board flight 238 to London Heathrow. We settled into our seats, and after taking off on time turned to letting time slip by as we enjoyed one of the smoothest flights in a very long time. After a light brunch I put on the (noise-cancelling) headphones, tuned the entertainment system to "True Detective" and watched episodes 1-3 (and hoping on the return flight more episodes would be available). I then watched "Despicable Me 2," and found myself frequently laughing out loud much to the occasional discomfort a at least one neighbor. As I finished the movie the seat belt light came back on and we glided ever so peacefully down to the tarmac at Heathrow; touching down at about 7:20pm, a half hour ahead of schedule (or “shed-yule” as they say here).

We quickly made our way off the plane and headed for passport control. With our Fast Track coupons in hand we thought this was going to be more smooth sailing — but we were very wrong. There were two agents handling Fast Track and the one seemed to have struck up a permanent relationship with a family of four while the other agent was primarily occupied with assisting all the disabled passengers on the flight. Our line moved nary a meter in 10 minutes. so, like many others, we made our way to the Not-so-fast-track line which had some 15 agents processing travelers.

A few minutes later found ourselves standing before a member of the Border Force who pointed out that we had failed to add Richard and Pauline’s street address. We claimed ignorance, a claim we felt was easily substantiated. Anyway he asked "Well how are young to get there?” We replied, “They’re here to pick us up.” “Well, next time you come into this country you’ll need to provide a specific address.” He also seemed keenly interested in what I did for a living. He wasn’t quite sure what a digital photo librarian does (a question many people ask). When I explained it to him he seemed unimpressed and rather bored by it all.

Aside form the somewhat inhospitable welcome from Border Force, the important thing was, we were in England; not just passing through mind you on to some other destination but here to stay -- for a week at least.

After being permitted to enter the Land of United Kingdoms we scooted through customs (“nothing to declare,” except my undying love for freedom) and as we exited the doors found ourselves face-to-face with several dozen drivers holding signs looking for passengers to take somewhere other than the airport. Most importantly for us, there was Pauline standing right there with Richard hovering close by. After hugs, kisses and handshakes all round the four of us made our way to the short-term “car park,” and we were soon on the M1 heading to Ellis Fields in St. Albans. Traffic was light and we made it to their home just as dark was falling.

What we could sense of their village (of about 65,000 souls) from inside the car was lots of green, roadways that curved every which way and a peace in the cozy architecture of the homes we passed along the way.

After unloading our bags in our room the four of us gathered in their living room for a celebratory toast of champagne (brought back from Champagne Richard informed us). We were soon ensconced around their dinner table for a delicious “spring fish pie": salmon in a white sauce topped by a layer of mashed potatoes mixed with creme fraiche and spring onions, baked to a golden brown crust, accompanied by a side of green beans.

The food was wonderful (each of us had two helpings, cleaning the casserole dish thank you very much), the wine was crisp and clean, and the conversation lively and warm. We sat, chatted sipped and ate until it was nearly midnight.

What a way to spend a Tuesday!

21 April - Off to Boston

Susie already had us packed up and ready to go so after I got off from work we left Westminster Street and drove up to Boston: I-95 to I-93 to US 1 to the Holiday Inn Express in Saugus. Traffic was surprisingly light, probably because of the holiday (Patriot's Day) and we found the hotel with no problem.

After unloading bags and checking in, we found our way in to the North End of Boston (pretty easy, really). Since we arrived about a half hour early we dropped the car off at the valet parking at Mamma Maria’s on North Square (where we had reservations for dinner) and strolled over to Hanover Street. There were lots of people out at the tail end of Patriot’s Day and the running of the Boston Marathon. We checked out the rear end of the Old North Church and then found a place for an aperitif: Nico’s Restaurante and Wine Bar at 417 Hanover st.

From Nico's we walked back to Mamma Maria's for dinner. Seated on the second floor next to the window overlooking the square that is also home to Paul Revere’s house, we had a nice view of a very old part of the city with the new skyscrapers serving as background. A curious juxtaposition of time and space.

Anyway, the service was great and, except for Susan's artichoke starter, the food delicious. In fact, my Bolognonese pasta was nothing short of superb! The singular downside is the high cost: we spent more on that one meal than we did for all four nights of dinners in England.

After picking up our car we tried to make our way back to I-93 north but couldn’t find the on-ramp we needed. After getting turned around for about 10 minutes were were back on US 1 and found the hotel parking garage with no problem. (We’re leaving our car there while we’re in England.)  It was back into the hotel, up to the 3rd floor, load up the ice bucket and we hit the sheets. Our flight was scheduled to leave at 8am so we put in a wakeup call for 4:15 so we could catch the 5:15 shuttle to the airport.

The fun was just beginning. . .

Springtime in Providence and Hadrian's Wall

It's been gorgeous weather here in Gritworld this last couple of weeks. With windows now open we get both the fresh air and the urban grit that's been lying in the streets since last fall. City life indeed!

Well, just a few more weeks and the Winter Farmers Market will close another season and move outdoors to Lippitt Park, just a 5-minute drive away. Susie will focus her attention this summer on classes, at least through July. After that, well so far we have planned a road trip to Michigan later in the summer; she might stay with her mom for a most of August but I'll come back to Providence  after a week. We'll see.

In the near term, though, we're off to England a week from tomorrow (Tuesday). Since we have an 8am flight out of Boston we're driving up after work on Monday and will spend the night near the airport at a Holiday Inn in Saugus. We can leave our car at the hotel and grab the hotel shuttle early in the morning. Anyway, we plan on dinner at Mamma Maria's in the North End that night.

OK, so we arrive in London about 7:30pm (local time) and Richard and Pauline will pick us up and drive to their home in St. Albans, We'll spend the better part of April 23 exploring their home town and maybe even get a tour of West Highgate Cemetery in London. The next day the four of us head north by car to Hadrian's Wall just shy of the Scottish border.

We'll spend four nights in Hexham at a B & B and explore the wonders of the English North Country and hopefully bounce into Scotland briefly. We then return to St. Albans on the 28th and spend the next day in London, possibly at the Imperial War Museum.   On the 30th we will say adieu to our hosts; after they drop us off at Heathrow the two of them head for France and Mouchon while we wait for British Airways to drive us home.

It's then back to the US, shuttle to the hotel, pick up the car and back to Providence.

Family outing to Broadway Bistro

This past weekend was quiet here in Providence. Brother-in-law Carl drove down to our corner of the planet on business and spent the weekeend with us.

After another great day for the French Tarte on Saturday the three of us joined by sister-in-law Dorothy  (Dick was off to New York leading a group of students on an outing) for dinner at Broadway Bistro, one of our favorite hangouts on the west side. Good food, lively conversation and a pleasant evening marred only by loud music and indifferent service. Otherwise, it was a fun time.

On Sunday Susie taught her last class until later in May. Next week we leave for England and new travel adventures. Stay tuned!
Dorothy listening to Carl make a point

artichoke croquettes, so-so

marinated shrimp

Chihuly in the Japanese Garden

We returned to Meijer Gardens recently to finish off our tour of the Chihuly sculptures, this time focusing on the Japanese Garden. new take...