Girona on Sunday

April 14.

Breakfast at the hotel: the food was plentiful and tasty, although the coffee was a bit lackluster. Still, it was all nicely laid out -- we thought placing the plates directly below the food was efficient and also a good way to keep them clean. Tres cool!

juices, fresh fruit, cheeses and hot food

pastries, lots of bread, and coffee machines

Off to explore the city we made our way back across the river and into the heart of the old city heading for the Girona Cathedral. The cathedral is visible from pretty much everywhere in town so finding it wasn't a problem. However, we got sidetracked by the lovely streets and found ourselves skirting around the cathedral walking through various gardens, climbing stairs and ending up on a portion of the medieval walls. But still unable to get to church.

along the old walls

we could see it but we couldn't get to it from where we stood

Susie stuck on the walls

But we were comforted by the fact we couldn't get lost and just kept circling round till at long last we came to our objective for the day: the cathedral of Girona. For all you nave aficionados, you'll be pleased to know that this church has the widest Gothic nave in the world and the second widest nave of any church, after that of St. Peter's in Rome. 

view of the other major church, from the steps of the cathedral

looking down the steps with the cathedral entrance to our back

Paying our entry fee we slid inside leaving the warm sunshine for the cool darkness of church. We were greeted by four models depicting the development of the church beginning with its founding as part of the Roman city in the 2nd century AD through the 11th century to its present configuration.

We strolled past the numerous chapels while I was always keeping one eye to the floor -- the ledger stones were remarkable but unfortunately nearly all of them seriously worn away.

chapel of St. John the Baptist

tomb of Cardinal Beranguer de Anglesola 

a rare ledger stone that can be easily read since it's only 200 years old

no signage but he must have been important

We then left the nave and walked out into the cloisters. More ledger stones here as well as numerous small sarcophagi and memorial plaques on the walls.

Back inside we popped into the chapel of Hope.

an unnamed cleric just turning over

Leaving the church we walked down the main steps and made our way into one of the narrow streets dotted with shops and the occasional eatery. 

I should add that what you're seeing from this vantage point dates back more than 2000 years. There were stairs here as well as a temple at the very top where the church now stands. Just thought you'd like to know.

you'll be happy to know that HBO filmed several scenes for its series Game of Thrones here

Once back to the river level we made our way to one of the main streets, in fact one we had explored the previous evening, and settled in the shade at the Hygge Cafe for a glass of cool Catalonian wine.

Eventually we lost the shade and since our glasses were empty we paid and left. Making our way back to the hotel, Susie caught sight of a restaurant she thought might be worth considering for dinner. Located in another hotel but just a block or so from our place, a quick glance at the menu and checking inside to see if we needed reservations (no), we said yes, let's give it a try. 

In the meantime it was time to get caught up on being footloose and fancy free at the hotel until our evening stroll, what the Italians always called the passegiata.

Back out in the evening we made our way over to Plaça de la Independencia, and strolled along checking out the occasional interesting shop. One in particular caught our eye, a shop that focused solely on Ecuadoran chocolate, bringing to mind Patricia's Chocolates in Grand Haven. In the center of the shop was a table filled with large covered bowls, each with a specialty chocolate, all for sampling. We tried the 70% with pistachios and ended up buying a couple of small slabs to take with us.

We returned to our side of the river and headed back to the hotel to check out the rooftop bar. We were not disappointed. We found the last hi-top table in the shade and settled back with a couple glasses of local white wine. The air was breezy and a bit cool but we thought perfect for the evening with a nice view of the cathedral we had visited earlier in the day..

A little before 8:00 pm we headed out, walking the two blocks to the restaurant Blanc. Located in the Hotel Ciutat de Girona, the place offers a light and airy atmosphere, good service and tasty food. We had grilled vegetables with a romesco sauce for a starter. Susie followed that with a salad with tuna in olive oil, an egg and a side of crisp, light focaccia like coca bread with tomato (a regular menu item in Girona). I had cod au gratin with more delicious romesco. We finished off with crema Catalana (custard in a bowl) for S. and xiuxo (shoe-shoe) for me.  We see this Girona specialty every where - a custard filled deep-fried pastry rather like an Italian bombaloni.

Next: Steve gets sick.

Rainy day in Gouda

29 May 2022.

We're both feeling a bit under the weather today, physically and literally since it has been rainy off and on. It's just as well since most places are closed (being a Sunday). 

So, while lazing around our hotel room my mind has drifted to wondering more about the history of our hotel. 

photo c. January 1954

What I have been able to glean so far is the space indeed began as an orphanage (weeshuis) in the early 17th century. It was still functioning as an orphanage into the 20th century, but eventually it became the city library, which was then moved to a different location. The space was renovated as a hotel in the early 21st century.

My curiosity about the orphanage satisfied, and after resting for a while, we set out to get some fresh air. Leaving the hotel we scooted behind Sint-Janskerk and came across one of numerous painted sculptures scattered around the old town. All the same shape, appearing to be a woman in wooden shoes, each painted differently, our theory revolves around the idea that they're part of Gouda's 750th anniversary celebration.

We made our way back into the central market square, now empty of tents, vendors and the throngs of tourists seeking to get that one special item to take home to wear, eat or hang on the wall. Just the incredibly massive old city hall (the new one is now located near the train station).

old city hall

Continuing our stroll we made our way down a few new streets along unfamiliar canals appreciating the whimsy of the community. . . 

But also recognizing the touches of sadness embedded in the pavement as well. 

Just to the left of the sofa in the photo above and down the street a short ways is one of over 70,000 stolpersteine in some 24 countries, or "stumbling stones", dedicated to remembering Jews who perished during the Holocaust. They are placed in front of the former residence of the person (or persons). In this case Felix Wertheimer (1886-1943) who perished at the Sobibor concentration camp. 

To learn more about this incredible project of artist Gunter Demnig, read the Guardian article. 

Our very casual stroll took us down other byways we had not seen before . . . For those of you who may never go and those who were here long ago (D & D):

Behind the old city hall is the cheese museum which also houses the Tourist Information office on the ground floor.

Here's something we came across that we thought curious: short bit of a canal that was covered over and turned into a garden. In the distance you can just barely make out the canal and when you turn around. . .

. . . you can see the canal open again.

One of the handful of shops open was the Olala chocola shop, where they were holding a chocolate workshop. Naturally we picked up a bag to snack on later.

We also came across part of the larger canal system that rings the old city:

the Fluwelensingel canal section

Back home we caught our breath and rested for a bit before venturing out again, this time to the nearby Museum of Gouda Cafe for a light lunch of Gouda cheese soup. The soup was pretty "gouda" but the focaccia not so much. . . They also charged us for the water. But there was a baby shower underway inside (the venue is known for its various teas and event specials) so that was a bonus.

Back at the hotel we had a light snooze before dinner at Hendrick Bistrobar. Located just 3 minutes from our hotel and at the base of the Sint-Janskerk, we both had the same thing: chicken yakitori followed by a chicken noodle soup (Thai-style). The food was scrumptious, leading us to comment how truly amazing the food vibe is here in Gouda. 

Tomorrow it's off to Delft!