Les Flâneurs: The Clark

Showing posts with label The Clark. Show all posts

The Berkshires, Kelli Rae, a grave in Vermont and home

Our quick trip out east was fast coming to end. Saturday morning we packed up, said our goodbyes to D & D, and with Dor's sandwiches stocked in our cooler we headed back west and eventually home.

The plan for this penultimate leg of our return trip was to swing up into northwestern Massachusetts, cruising through the Berkshires as we made our way to The Clark museum in Williamstown and then to Mass MOCA in North Adams. We had recently learned that an old friend, Kelli Rae Adams was going to be on site at her exhibition at Mass MOCA so we thought we'd pop by and surprise her (we did).

Traffic was tolerable on I-90, the infamous Mass Pike, and we made good time to I-91 where we turned north. At Greenfield we left the interstate and got on Rte 2 west. Also known as the Mohawk Trail the road climbed and wended up through the mountains, along Allen Brook, and past dramatically gorgeous scenery enhanced by the autumn colors.

(In fact, most of our return trip would be one wonderful, long color tour, something we really hadn't expected.)

Passing through North Adams we found Mass MOCA but since it was a bit early to try and meet up with Kelli Rae we drove a few miles on into Williamstown and The Clark.

We strolled the grounds taking in the lush beauty of this incredible space after which we had a picnic lunch of Dor's sandwiches (and Cape Cod chips, of course).

Leaving Williamstown we made our way back to North Adams and pulled into Mass MOCA's parking lot. For those of you who have not had the opportunity of visiting this enormous space it is really quite overwhelming, and while contemporary art is not even close to the top of our list of interests, the artwork here is fun, engaging and certainly impressive, in scope and size if nothing else.

entrance, just one of several buildings in the complex

Anyway, we soon found Kelli Rae and thoroughly enjoyed the look of surprise on her face when she spied us, especially Susan.

Surprise!

Kelli's latest project "Forever in Your Debt" about the student debt crisis

Kelli and Susie

Back in our Providence, RI days Kelli used to come into Susie's shop in Pawtucket and even worked there for a short while. She always brought a sense of calm with her and a focus on the task at hand. Quiet, self-effacing and full of effervescence, she and Susie became fast friends.

The three of us spent too little time catching up but she was there to be available for the public to talk about her exhibition and we had "miles to go before we sleep." We hugged, said goodbye and promised to try and meet up again sooner than later.

From North Adams we headed north up Rte 8 to Rte 9 in southern Vermont and then west to Bennington where we picked up Rte 7, the main north-south artery in the state.

The sole reason for the Vermont leg of the trip was to pay our respects to one of Susie's dearest friends, Lena D. She passed away in July and, while Susie was able to attend her memorial service in Wallingford, she never got to the gravesite. We hoped to rectify that on this trip.

Unfortunately, our efforts to find the grave were in vain. Saint Patrick's cemetery, located on a bluff overlooking Green Hill Cemetery at the southern edge of Wallingford, was small to be sure but our searches on foot came up empty. Still, we were close by her and the location of the cemetery (as you can see from the photos) places her in a beautiful location over the Otter Creek Valley below.

From Wallingford we returned south down Rte 7 skirting Bennington and on to Troy, New York, where we picked up I-87 south. We left the highway near Crossgates Mall outside Albany, where the Northway (I-87) becomes the Thruway (I-87 south and I-90 west). We spent the night close to the mall and had a very nice meal at the 110 Grill, part of a larger food an entertainment venue connected to the mall.

The next morning we were on the road early and pretty much zipped through the fog-shrouded Mohawk River valley. Although the state is in the process of rebuilding some of the service plazas, we experienced no problems along the route. And, aside from stopping once for gas and then again to top off the oil, we made good time and were across the border by about noon.

Once around Hamilton we left the 403 for the 401, stopping at the Onroute service area near Woodstock for gas and a short break. We then pushed on to the 402 and the US border, Susie driving us across into Michigan. Since we had Global Passes (Trusted Traveler Program), we crossed the border using the Nexus lane, allowing us to bypass the numerous cars waiting in other lines. Whew!

We arrived home a little past 6:00pm local time, unpacked, and sat with a glass of wine debriefing ourselves about the trip.

The time was short but reconnecting with old friends, visiting with family, enjoying new experiences and passing some of the most beautiful autumn colors the likes of which we hadn't seen for some time made the trip eminently worthwhile.

I wish you could've been there. . . Oh, and if you haven't seen enough images so far, you might find the next few items of interest

PS. For a tres cool example of the whimsy you can find at Mass MOCA listen to the singing hallway:

PPS. Two poignant dying sentiments and one curious tragedy:

James S. Cole, front

rear

Victoria Cole-Wilbur, front

rear

And right next door in Green Hill Cemetery:

Clara Congdon

On to The Clark and then Vermont

Susie and I lounged around D & D's until about 9am when we packed the car, said our goodbyes -- briefly, since we'll be seeing them again in Michigan later next month -- and hit the road. We headed back to the Mass Pike (I-90) west and, with the exception of one brief stop at a service plaza, reached our exit about 80 miles later. Traffic was surprisingly light for this part of I-90. We then turned north up Route 20 to the connection with Route 7 that would take us first to Williamstown and then on into Vermont, ending this leg of the trip in Rutland.

Our only stop en route was at The Clark art museum in Williamstown. We had been here twice before and were determined to revisit one of the cultural gems of Massachusetts. Given the pandemic restrictions they are seriously limiting the number of people in the museum at any one time so we purchased our timed tickets a week before leaving Michigan. That said, one consequence of restricting the number of people is one can spend more time and get closer to the artwork. Indeed, they limit the number of people in each gallery (based on the size of the gallery) which allowed a greater sense of freedom to explore and examine, no jockeying around large groups, that sort of thing.

I had been informed before we left on the trip that some of the galleries might well be closed for remodeling but we found all of them open.

As expected we enjoyed ourselves immensely, revisiting Winslow Homer, Edgar Degas, James Tissot, Edouard Manet, Berthe Morisot, John Singer Sargent and many others we had forgotten were here. The Clark also has a very large selection of Renoirs as well. On an earlier trip we discovered the incredible work of Giovanni Boldini and this time we were surprised to come across several pieces by the portraitist Raimondo di Madrazo y Garreta.

Woman in White, c. 1880 by
Raimondo di Madrazo y Garreta

If you're interested in seeing some of what we were fortunate to experience, I've posted a large selection of photos from the inside of the museum, consisting mostly of individual works of art right here.

Leaving Williamstown a little after 1pm we headed north into Vermont and recalled at once the truly spectacular scenery: Vermont is indeed a very green mountain state.

We passed through Manchester with an eye for a stop at Northshire Bookstore, one of our favorite haunts so many years ago. Again, we were not disappointed to find them alive and seemingly thriving.

After browsing we each found something special to take away and returned to the car just as we got hit with our first burst of rain. It wouldn't be the last one of the day either.

Returning to Route 7 we continued our drive north to the land of old but oh so pleasant memories. We found our hotel just south of Rutland and checked in, taking a break before heading off to the home of Jack and Pat Facey, part of the old Rutland Wine Group.

A little before 5pm Susie and I drove into town, past our old home on West Ridge Terrace and then north to Mr. Twitter's to make sure they were still there (they are). We then drove back into town and made our way to the Facey home.

Jack and Pat had arranged a pizza party with a wine tasting (of course). We began by sitting out on their patio around a toasty fire-pit sipping Orvieto white before moving to a warming red and sharing stories, catching up on all the news since we left here so many years ago. The saddest news was to learn that Dan Foley had passed away. A reminder that time was slipping away from us all.

With the faltering light we moved indoors to dinner and tasting three reds: a Barolo, a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and a red from the Maremma area that the Faceys had brought back several years ago. Delicious wines to be sure but for me the Maremma red, a simple IGT produced in the vicinity of Scansano, stole the show.

Good food, lots of banter and stories of times gone by but fondly remembered, all had to come to an end. We said adieu to Jack and Pat and made our way back to our hotel.