Susie and I were unusually leisurely this morning. We had no definite plan and it was about time we started thinking of getting ready to leave tomorrow. So, the Tarte did one last load of laundry while I worked on blog notes and photos.
We walked out of the apartment heading for the river in search of Frank Gehry's Dancing House. A block or so along out street we passed this wonderful sculpture in the side of an otherwise nondescript building. The date refers to the Velvet Revolution, the nonviolent transition of power from a one-party system dominated by the Communists to a parliamentary democracy. (Need more information?)
the date of the Velvet Revolution
There was serious construction along the street so the tram stops had been moved around and the signage unclear. As a result we ended walking the short distance down along the river to the Dancing House.
paddle boats in an inlet off the river
looking north up the river toward the Prague Castle (in the far distance)
facing the river
Thanks to Grand Haven friends Patti and Paul for the tip about this particular Gehry design.
Frank Gehry's Dancing House
you never know what you're going to see on the street
From there we headed back toward the center of town in search of Franz Kafka’s mechanical head. This was just one of the things we discovered by chance somewhere in our readings.
Franz Kafka's mechanical head
Designed and installed by David Černy, this incredible work of art consists of 42 rotating panels and each panel is timed to move independently of the others. Every hour on the hour it forms and reforms the head for some 15 minutes creating striking visual effects. If you don’t believe me, just check out my short video (about 5 minutes long):
Since Kafka’s head was quite close by our apartment we decided to stop at home for lunch and a short nap for me.
Back out on the street we walked in the direction of the old town square keeping our eye out for a trdlo shop; they specialize in a scrumptious sweet bread wrapped around a spit and grilled then filled with ice cream. As sheriff Andy would say, Ummmmm good!
special rolled grilled cakes with ice cream inside
After our post-lunch dessert we made our way back to the river and the tram no. 17 heading south. We got off at Vyton and wended our way up to Vysehrad (“high castle”). This castle, reportedly one of the oldest in the city, is pretty much all gone except for some rather imposing walls; much of the interior is a park. There is a lovely basilica, plenty of great views of the city and my objective Vysehrad Cemetery. Here among the wonderful sculpture you can find (and I did) the graves of composer Antonin Dvorak and art nouveau painter and illustrator Alphonse Mucha.
walking up to the grounds of one of the oldest castles in the city
Dvorak's tomb in Vysehrad cemetery
view up the river from the castle walls
Leaving the cemetery we strolled along the walls to take in the views and at one point were joined by a large group of bicyclists from the Netherlands (presumably since their bikes all said PraagBikeTours.nl).
Moving a bit further along the walls we found an open bench to sit relax and take in the views for at least a few moments.
part of a Dutch biking tour
original castle grounds, now a park
the old castle basilica
walking back down - and the hope that love does conquer all
Having rested enough we headed back down to the tram stop and home.
Our last supper in Prague was especially good. I had come across a wine bar in the Rough Guide called Monarch and since it was less than a five-minute walk from our apartment, off we went a little before 7pm (1900). They are known for two things apparently: wine and steaks. In fact they have a steak tasting for two and even one for four! (Who knew such a thing as a steak tasting existed?) We each chose the burger which came with their house-made bun and house-made fries. The food was, to say the least, incredible.
For wines we opted for Czech red wines. Since it was clear by looking around the room that wine was taken as seriously as their meat and the wine list was a small novella, I asked the waiter for a suggestion of a red Czech wine to have with the burgers. He said, quite matter-of-factly, that the Czech Republic doesn’t produce very good red wine but we took the plunge anyway and went with a Merlot from Craig Stapleton (not a Czech name but hey you take what you can get). Both the starter and main course wines were nice but the guy was right, far from stellar.
To round the evening we each had a glass of Hungarian Tokaj; and that was equally delicious.
burgers and Czech red wine at Monarch
After supper it was a quick stroll home and finish preparing for the next day.
Tomorrow it's time to leave Prague and move on to an overnight in Hamburg before our next apartment, in Copenhagen.
Accommodation - Air BnB. Our host Michal was very accommodating especially as we arrived an hour and a half later than planned. He was also helpful and explained the apartment details fully.
The appliances worked well and the shower was very nice.
There were a few issues as we were to discover: some of the lights did not work, a couple of outlets were non-functioning, the outside noise could be distracting for some (fortunately it didn't bother us too much), and there were a couple of unstable slider doors that rendered that space unusable. Also the wifi was extremely slow.
Food. We used a nearby Tesco market for groceries but ended up eating at home only once. Our neighborhood was packed with great dining venues. We can strongly recommend Pilsnerka Narodni, Monarch and Pho Bar.
Public Transport. A big thumbs up for Prague on transport. First off all trams, busses and the metro are free for seniors (65+) with proof of age. Second, the trams go everywhere and are easy to find and use.
The metro was fast, smooth and a great way to cross the city quickly; also it was nearly all esclalators and elevators.
Our one experience with Uber was OK but we opted to rely on the tram system which was extensive and for us (over 65) free.
Attractions. There is plenty to see and do in Prague but you knew this already. The Charles Bridge, the Jewish quarter and especially the old Cemetery (a feee to enter), and of course the Prague Castle.
We were a bit disappointed in the complexity of the various ticketing systems: rather than an attraction with multiple elements (such as the Jewish quarter or the Castle) having just one ticket you're required to pick and choose the various elements you want to see and then find the right bundle. Quite awkward.
Communication. No landline phone so relying on mobile is the only option. A smartphone is a big plus for texting and occasionally checking maps. It's also possible to get tickets to some attractions right on your phone..
Currency. You can use euros with confidence but we found taking local currency out of a bank ATM (NOT Euronet) worked well. While many places take credit cards it's always nice having local currency on hand for incidentals (ice cream, the odd aperitif, tipping). Note that Prague is quite inexpensive.
Masking and vaccination. Neither seemed to be an issue. No one asked for proof of vaccination let alone booster and masking mandates were gone, left to the individual's preference.
After another in a long (and growing) line of leisurely breakfasts, we dressed and headed out for the day. We had several objectives: dry run the public transport for returning to the train station Friday morning, visit Wenceslas Square, find the Mysak pastry shop, and head up to the Prague Castle. Located on the other side of the river the castle is one of the tourist high points, literally and figuratively.
So, we walked around the corner from our apartment and waited for the no. 9 tram to take us directly to the station. The tram system really dominates public transport in central Prague and very few busses are to be found. While the underground metro is useful for traversing long distances in the city, it's the tramway that holds the key to getting around downtown easily and quickly.
Also, it is free for anyone over 65! All trams, busses and the metro. FREE. And we learned that only by chance when we stopped by a nearby tourist office to ask about day pass fares.
After some confusion on our part as to where exactly to stand, the Nine arrived. We boarded and in less than 10 minutes were at the stop near the train station. It was a 5-minute walk to get inside. While there we thought to do some reconnaissance on the platform system and location.
For our return from the station we wanted to check to see if the metro might work better for us on Friday (the short answer is no.) We followed the escalator down to the C line took it one stop (Muzeum) to the A line. Since we were heading to the castle we remained on the A which took us across the river and (sort of) close to our objective.
waiting for the no. 9 tram
v
on the metro, switching from lines C to A
waiting for the A train
Our maps were a bit unclear as to which stop was the best for getting to the Prague Castle and so we found ourselves in a quiet residential neighborhood some distance from our objective. Even though the walk was uphill the weather was sunny and warm and the walk took us through a lovely area where even the tram tracks were lined with trees (see photo below, the tracks are to the right).
We soon found the entrance to the castle. Once inside the location we were confronted by a small challenge of finding exactly where we were to get tickets. Once that problem was solved we were again confronted by the (now old) issue of what did we want to see since there were a variety of ticket bundles.
We opted for the so-called "Castle Circuit" and off we went.
looking back to the entrance; we would return this way to a nearby tram stop
inner courtyard
Saint Vitus cathedral
how many have stood right there looking up century after century?
the tomb of Jano Nepomuckeho, I have no idea who he is but the sculpture is incredible
back outside close to the cathedral
From the church it was a short walk to the palace.
the large audience hall
the chapel where Saint Ludmilla, patron saint of Bohemia, is buried
the area called the Gold Lane, where many of the local workers lived
Leaving the castle we retraced our steps and near the exit picked up the no. 22 tram going back across the river close to home. We got off relatively close to our another objective for the day: Wenceslas Square.
Sloping down from the square was a small cluster of food stands selling mostly tasty looking sausages, peppers, potatoes and other goodies to grab on the go.
good King Wenceslas himself with the National Museum in the background - note the Ukrainian banner
mushrooms with peppers
According to my pastry shop guide (AKA the French Tarte) the pastry shop she was keen on visiting was on a street just off the square. So off we went down one of the main streets bordering the square
After a few minutes walk we found the pastry shop Mysak. We settled in for awhile. I had a glass of crisp white wine and Susie had a cappuccino with a tasting of three small pastries: a lemon tart, glazed choux bun, and an interesting chocolate cake ball. They were tasty indeed. (Susie will have a post up soon on Mysak.)
lemon tart
choux bun
the chocolate thing
After returning home and taking care of a few chores we went back out in the evening for supper. Again we went next door but this time in the opposite direction from Pilsnerka Narodni. We popped into the Pho Bar. Susie had chicken curry with rice and I had shrimp fried rice; we each had an order of spring rolls. The food was fresh and so very tasty.
Tomorrow is our last day in Prague and we plan to play it by ear, so to speak. Stay tuned!
