Off to Portugal next month

Winter has struck here in west Michigan making one yearn for sunnier climes. So I guess it was a good idea to plan a trip to Portugal in late January!

The long and short of it is we fly United Airlines from Grand Rapids via Newark (long layover) to Lisbon. 


We will spend five nights in Lisbon at an Air BnB, and plan at least one day to get out to Sintra. We will then take the train to Porto and meet up with friends Richard and Pauline who will be flying in from the greater London area. 


After five nights in a hotel close to the Douro River Susie and I will train back to Lisbon and stay in a hotel for our last night before flying home (another long layover). Richard and Pauline will spend one last night in Porto before flying back to the UK.

That's pretty much it.

Happy birthday Tunis

Tunis VandenBerg, 1921-1999. Husband, father, grandfather, navigator on B-24s during WW2, a small town physician who was part of the Greatest Generation. . . Photo taken c. 1944.

Happy 104th birthday, Tune!


Paris 2025 summary

Transportation. Except for trips from and back to the airport (taxi and Uber respectively) we used public transportation. remember that Uber is always going to be less expensive than a taxi. We noticed several of the Metro lines had newer cars and there were a few more escalators than we remember and an occasional elevator. But still lots of steps and connections in some of the larger transfer stations required quite a bit of walking. 

The buses we took were clean, reliable, and seemed fairly up-to-date and were often the better choice than the Metro. Just depends on your itinerary. Anyway, we found it pleasant to travel around the city above ground once in awhile.

Using the transportation ticketing system is easy. For the casual traveler you'll use tickets (acquired via one of the Metro apps). If you've come to Paris a number of times over the years you might have acquired a physical Navigo Pass -- which apparently can also be accessed on your phone as well, although if I'm not mistaken it seems you have an IDF Mobilités account. Anyway, the Navigo will give you access to Metro, RER, bus and trams within central Paris. If you use the Bonjour app and just download tickets (singly or in multiples) be aware they will not work on the bus, odd as it may seem. 

And the Metro apps also provide you with handy maps for the various lines so pretty much everything you need to get around Paris can be right on your phone.

Accommodation. Whether you opt for a hotel or apartment, location, as they say, is everything. Plan to stay close to transportation hubs, close to say two different Metro stops would be ideal, which isn't terribly difficult in the city. There will always be a bus stop close by.

Since most services are taken care of  in a hotel there is little need to prepare food or do the laundry. If you opt for an apartment, and if your stay is say longer than a week, then things like availability of a washing machine, oven, cooktop, kitchen accessories, will require a bit more thought.

Our particular Air BnB apartment has issues right from the get-go. More of that right here.

Communication. We relied on on iPhones throughout our travels. I used a data eSim from Airolo which I've used in the past and it works great. I paid $6.00 for 2gb/two weeks in France and it was more than enough for our needs. Otherwise I used WhatsApp to communicate with our host as well as a friend. Texting and phone cals remained with our USA carrier as usual and I believe Xfinity no longer charges for those while abroad. 

Food. Wonderful food experiences as noted in my blog. And our neighborhood next door to major indoor and outdoor food markets was, for us, food central. 

Attractions. Noted in my daily postings. I will say that for us just walking, strolling striding, whatever you want to call it, is one of our favorite things to do when traveling. Just being a flâneur! Cheap and easy way to see wherever you're staying and this is certainly true of Paris, an eminently walkable city.

That said, we did see the "new" Notre Dame de Paris -- it was a smart move to get timed tickets online, to be sure, but once inside it was wall-to-wall people, Gorgeous, true, but the humanity! Visiting the cemetery of Père-Lachaise is always near the top of our list. We did go to the Musée d'Orsay to see the John Singer Sargent exhibition and a stop at the Petit Palais is always worth the time to see whatever exhibition is going on there. 

market on rue d'Aligri - and we did eat that particular head of broccoli


Apartment in Paris 2025

We stayed in the apartment for 9 nights in late September of 2025. 

First and foremost you couldn't ask for a better neighborhood. Place d'Aligre includes one of the city's largest outdoor markets and an indoor market as well (both open 6 days a week). There are many eateries and food shops as well. 

To be more specific, running alongside the apartment building where we stayed is rue de Cotte, which covers barely three blocks from rue Charenton to rue Faubourg de Saint-Antoine. It might not look impressive, but just along one of those blocks you can find Lebanese, Thai, Vietnamese, Argentinian, Italian and a Michelen-starred restaurant all cheek-by-jowl with one another. Running parallel with rue de Cotte is rue d'Aligre, home to the eponymous market in the mornings and a plethora of food businesses. 

You're just a couple of blocks from the promenade plantée (Coulée vert René-Dumont) and close to Metro stop 8 and bus no. 86. 

The noise late at night can be a bit of a nuisance, and there is the occasional early morning ruckus with the opening of the markets but otherwise it's a pretty quiet place.

However, we encountered several issues with the apartment. The entrance to the building is by a side door because the key fob currently does not work on the front door. And speaking of keys, the host did not know the codes to get into the building — if the fob wouldn’t work that might be an issue.The elevator worked fine. 

The main problems were inside the apartment. 

The oven did not work, which the host acknowledged when we checked in. The kitchen faucet drips constantly at its base (even when not turned on) and most steadily when the water is running. Again, the host acknowledged the issue but had not gotten around to fixing it. One of the sliding doors to the very small corner shower was off the track, which made showering a tad more challenging than it would have been otherwise. 

The host warned us that the toaster might burn the toast if we didn't pay attention. Thankfully it did not. 

Of a perhaps lesser concern, but rather important for those staying a week or more and planning to cook, several key items were lacking in the kitchen: no cutting board, nothing remotely approaching a good knife, no pot holders and only one rather thin rag of a towel. There were two aprons.

The bedroom had plenty of storage, the bed was comfortable and the pillows just fine. Bedside lamps worked fine. Both rooms had the ever-present outside metal shutters that worked fine with the remote controls. Curtains in the bedroom were thin and in the living room they didn't span the entire window area. 

As noted in the bathroom there was an issue with the shower door on a sliding track, other wise the shower was functional The toilet worked and there was ample storage for various toiletries for the traveler.

The view from the 6th (7th) floor overlooking the Place and the wider neighborhood is quite dramatic to be sure. 

One deficiency was the absence of any instructions (where garbage was to be taken, what to do with recycles, what to do with the key when checking out, etc.), emergency numbers,  or even a list of recommended places to eat, wine shops, grocery stores nearby, etc. These are all pretty standard with the places we've stayed at in the past. Even just one page is usually sufficient.

It should be noted that the heat is controlled by the building and according to our host they do not turn the heat on until October.

Would we recommend staying in this particular apartment? At this point, we would have to say no. If the host/owner fixes the faucet, oven and shower slider, we would give it a tentative thumbs up. But be prepared to improvise when it comes to cooking. Ask yourself, how would Julia Child deal with it?


Lisbon to Porto by train

I purchased tickets a couple of months earlier in hand (and on our phones) ready and waiting. Since we will only be taking two trains this t...