Grand Canyon South Rim

 [Sunday 17 September]

Another cool, crisp, sunny day greeted us this morning. We packed the car and headed off to the Lodge Saloon for morning coffee and one final visit to the North Rim. 

The drive was uneventful and traffic light. Within the first two hours we dropped from over 8000 feet to 4000, passing through scrub desert as we scooted along the base of the Vermillion Cliffs, a wall of rock that stretched for as far as the eye could see.

We passed through the Navajo Reservation and over the Little Colorado River and then crossed the Colorado itself as we made our way to the east entrance of the park’s South Rim. 

Just inside the park was our first genuine glimpse of the south rim at Desert View and what a view!

the Colorado River

The Watchtower

At Desert View we learned of the midair collision of United Flight 782 and TWA Flight 2 in 1956 that sent debris scattering over the canyon on the other side of the Colorado from the Watchtower. While most of the remains along with much of the wreckage were recovered, some debris is still scattered across the lower portions of the canyon near the crash sites.

the crash site marker 

Continuing our journey west toward Grand Canyon Village and the park visitor center we stopped at Lipon Point.

We then moved on to Moran Point and Grandview Point before reaching Grand Canyon Village. 

Grandview Point, and a grand view it is!

Once inside the village we made our way to the Bright Angel Lodge. As we approached the lodge, traffic was stalled because a bull elk was standing the roadway. 

Just off to the right beneath a few trees was a female with her young just hanging out next to one of the nearby hotel buildings.

Traffic finally scooted around the animal and we were soon at Bright Angel Lodge and checked in.

photo courtesy of Audley Travel

rear of the lodge facing the rim

Once in our cabin just 100 feet or so from the rim, we learned that due to a disruption in the water supplies to the South Rim, there was water rationing in place: short showers, minimal flushing for guests, greatly reduced dishwashing for hotels and businesses in general. 

After settling in we explored the neighborhood. Next up was to learn the free canyon shuttle system, a stop at the visitor center and the market, so off we went to the nearest shuttle stop. 

Getting off at the visitor center we were struck by the fact it was closed today due to staffing shortages — we plan to return tomorrow, Monday. 

Back to the shuttle we got off at the market, picked up a few groceries, and then back to the lodge. 

That evening we opted to eat at the Fred Harvey Lounge in the Lodge. Unremarkable food but the wine wasn’t bad and the staff very good.

That evening we stood in awe as the fading light made the canyon truly come alive.

Grand Canyon North Rim

[Saturday 16 September]

Today began cool with clear skies. After getting showered and dressed we headed off to the Saloon for coffee followed by a light breakfast for Susie in the room. (The only other option for breakfast was a full buffet in the lodge restaurant.) Our first objective for the morning was a drive to Point Imperial, the highest point in the park (8877 feet thank you). After a quick stop at the general store to see if they had any bananas (no) Susie checked out the nearby laundromat facilities (also no thank you). 

We headed back north for about 3 miles where we turned off Rt 67. It was an 8-mile drive to the Point through gorgeous wooded slopes, passing through another large burn area before we reached the stop. 

To describe the views of Point Imperial as stunning would be an understatement. From the point we spied five or six helicopters touring the canyons, one followed right after another. Three days from now we’ll be in one of those ourselves. . . 

Once back at the lodge grounds we headed for Bright Angel’s Point and strolled a ways down before becoming somewhat overwhelmed by the narrowness of the path juxtaposed with the sheerness of the drops. Let’s not forget that we are at over 8000 feet of elevation and our systems aren’t used to this altitude. 

In addition to Bright Angel's point there are several other overlooks near the lodge.

Returning to the room we changed clothes (long pants into shorts for me) and then walked over to the 11:30 Ranger program near the visitor center. The talk of the morning was about Bison in the park and our ranger presenter was engaging, funny, informative and a real pleasure to spend a half hour or so with. 

After the program we had a not-so-light lunch of pizza and beer, followed by a return to the room for a nap (Susie too!).

For the rest of the afternoon we relaxed in the main lodge’s sunroom, reading, puzzling and me working on this blog note.

sunroom overlook on the left

Since we had plenty of time to kill before our 9:30pm dinner reservation with beer in hand we we joined the crowd outside on the lodge terraces for the sunset. 

After the sun went down we headed into the Lodge auditorium for the evening Ranger program. The title of the presentation by Ranger Doug was Grand Canyon Special Places Special Faces. 

It opened with a half hour or so of the audience, accompanied by Doug on his guitar, singing variations of songs by the Beatles, Creedence Clearwater, Jackson Browne and more, with the lyrics revised by Ranger Doug to focus on the Grand Canyon. One of the interesting ones was a very funny take on Tom Petty’s “Free Fallin’” for the serious canyon hikers out there. 

The group was enthusiastic to say the least and the entire sing-along was a blast. 

At one point we discovered the couple, Sonia and Paul, sitting in front of us was from Santa Rosa, CA. We asked if they knew Pam Van Halsema Mulder and Sonia said “Why yes, we go to the same church”! 

me, Susie, and Sonia

The program ended a little before 9:00 pm when we moved outside with Ranger Doug to check out the night sky. The North Rim is a designated dark sky location, and, being a very clear night, the stars were plentiful with the Milky Way a huge, ethereal swath intermingling with the likes of Saturn.

After a very nice dinner in the lodge dining room we walked back in the cool, quiet of the night and to bed.

Tomorrow it’s off to the South Rim!