Quebec -- Canyon Sainte-Anne

Just a 15-minute drive from Old Quebec on the north bank of the Saint Lawrence River lies the village of Saint-Anne. Well-known by locals for its skiing, it's also a religious destination with a huge "basilique" across a parking from an en equally enormous Cyclorama of Jerusalem. Saint-Anne also has a very nice hiking trail located within the Canyon of Saint-Anne complex, with three suspension bridges across one serious gorge. That was our destination on the morning of 3 August to be followed up by a swing around the very pastoral Isle d'Orleans in the afternoon.
The entrance
The buildings reminded us both of summer camp in the midwest
After paying the admission fee we strolled down a curious path lined with wooden creatures

the first bridge
looking toward the next set of bridges



the second bridge, with a zip line
from below

the second bridge tended to move -- a lot -- making not a few folks a bit uneasy 

for an additional 20 bucks one could cross using the zip line

walking down (which meant walking up) 183 stairs to the third and last bridge


voila!

Quebec -- Le Moulin a Images

With the exception of the show "Amaluna" that we saw at Cirque du Soleil, this "event" was probably the coolest thing we saw in Canada -- in fact, this may be one of the coolest things we've ever seen. Picture (sorry) a projection screen using scores of grain silos, more than 600 meters wide, for a 45-minute, surreal look at the history of Quebec City. . .

Here's what it looks like during the day:



. . . and here's the same venue, at night with a brief (4-minute) glimpse into the show -- and turn the sound up!

Quebec -- we set out on a journey to the Great Far North


Although we had to cancel our trip to France this year, we thought surely the next best thing would be a road trip to Quebec, right? (As it turned out the answer was "No," and don't call me "surely.") Anyway, the plan was to drive to Quebec City, spend a few nights and then cruise around the the Gaspe Peninsula, swing down through New Brunswick, cross into Maine spend a night in Bangor with family and and then home. That part worked according to plan.

So, late on the afternoon of 31 July I walked over from work and picked up our rental car (the Great White Whale) from Avis in downtown Providence. We packed it up that night, and bright and early Wednesday morning we pulled out of our parking lot and headed for I-95. Our route would take us north to Route 3, then I-93 up through New Hampshire, I-91 through a sliver of Vermont where we would cross the border at Newport and Derby Line.

Once we passed the Q & A exam at the border ("Why are you coming to Canada?" "Beats me, why am I coming to Canada?") we continued on Route 55 around Sherbrooke and then turned east on Route 20 at Drummondville, which took us on a parallel course with the Saint Lawrence River straight to Quebec.

(A stop at the welcome center in Quebec was enlightening: the only flag flying was the Quebec flag; the maple leaf was nowhere to be seen.)

Our hotel was in "Old Quebec," just off the old port area, and to get there we had to cross the Saint Lawrence on Route 73 and then turn into the city on Route 440. After a brief flurry of confusion about parking we soon found ourselves unpacking in our hotel, Le Port Royal.

This leg of the trip had taken just a bit over eight hours of leisurely driving -- and we were looking forward to two or three days of exploring "a bit of old Europe" on foot. Boy, were we in for a few surprises.

Boules, pastries, motorcycle training, and the Perry Brothers

Sometimes it seems our days are filled only with the humdrum moments of life: sleep, work, eat, sleep, that sort of thing. Yet, when I sit down to collect my thoughts, I'm struck at how really full our lives are here in the Ocean State (motto: "making a bad situation worse since 1636").

A week ago last Friday Susie and I drove down to Colt State Park -- one of the true gems here in Gritworld -- where we met up with our friend Magali and Cheryl, a flutist and one of Susie's comrades in French class at Alliance. The four of us rendezvoused at the entrance and then drove to the boules court overlooking the bay where we played a couple of rousing games before setting up at a nearby picnic table. We savored the setting (overcast) sun while feasting on homemade salads and sandwiches, topped off by fruit and Susie's brownies.

Most of last week found us gliding quietly through work: Susie with her incredible pastries and hands-on classes. In fact, this week both Wednesday and Saturday classes have sold out and she's had to turn people away. What a tarte!





As for me, well I keep archiving photos for the university even as our team is packing up to move the 2nd of August. We're staying in Providence but moving a little further south of downtown. With the new move, however, I won't be able to walk to work so we going to need a second form of urban transportation and I found just the thing: the Honda PCX150.



But, because we also live in the state of confusion (AKA Rhode Island) I needed a special "motorcycle endorsement" to my driver's license. And in order to get the endorsement, the state requires that I take the Motorcycle Safety Foundation course offered at the Community College of Rhode Island. Mind you, this is a good idea, and was certainly a healthy refresher for me. So, a week ago last Saturday I spent 8 hours in a classroom followed by two days (Monday and Friday), from 5-10pm each, for the practical, or riding portion the program.



So, as of yesterday (Monday), I am now legally permitted to operate a two-wheeled motor vehicle in the state -- as long as I'm accompanied by a driver 18 years or older for the next 30 days and then I return to the DMV for the official license. (No, I don't know why either.)

This past Sunday promised to be a beautiful day so Susie and I climbed into the gray ghost with the objective of cruising the backroads of western Rhode Island. We left home about 8:30am, pointed south to I-95 and then Route 4 south as far as Route 138 where we turned east. Crossing Jamestown Island our first stop was Island Cemetery in Newport.

Located just north of the city itself, the cemetery is the final home to August Belmont, financial agent for the Rothschilds, and his son August Junior who founded and financed the New York City subway system.



It is also the resting place of Oliver Hazard Perry, hero of Battle of Lake Erie during the War of 1812:



But on this particular day we had come for Matthew Perry, Oliver's younger brother. Commodore Matthew Perry is today credited with gently but firmly forcing Japan to open its cultural and economic doors to the west in 1853; he was also a signatory to the Convention of Kanagawa, which effectively brought about the rise of modern Japan. As part of the Newport "Black ships festival" (the Japanese allusion to the black hulls of the American warships) the America-Japan society held a special wreath-laying ceremony at Matthew Perry's grave, and we were there to witness the event.



At a little after 9am we joined a healthy throng of society members, as well as the mayor of Shimoda, Japan, sister city of Newport, whose mayor was also there, and of course the curious like ourselves.









Several speeches, short but touching, laying of the wreath, Amazing Grace, followed by taps to rekindle the memory of this man long-dead, but whose impact still resonates down the years.

After taps had blown and the groups drifted away from the grave site, Susie and I strolled about this wonderful sleeping place, finding our way along the path to Oliver Hazard Perry's grave -- and no surprise but we saw a number of families who had chosen to name their son Oliver Hazard Perry, a local man whose accomplishments were grand indeed. We stopped and paid our respects to the (other) Commodore Perry and his family before heading back to the car.

From Newport we headed back north to Bristol, crossing the Mount Hope Bridge, and shortly afterwards, turned into the green pastures of the Mount Hope farm. After parking we walked about the grounds, strolling from craft tent to tent.





We couldn't resist the location, with live music and cool ocean breezes wafting all about us -- so we stayed and ate lunch at one of the two food trucks, PloufPlouf, for "rustic" French cuisine.



Susie had a croque monsieur (the delightful and delicious Parisian take on grilled cheese) accompanied by a small salad and I had the merguez sausage on baguette with hand-cut Belgian fries. Incredible!





From Mount Hope farm we headed back south just a few miles to the 19th century mansion Blithewold. pOverlooking and etched back from the bay just south of Bristol proper, this was originally the home of the Van Wickles family who made their fortune off the coal miners of Pennsylvania.





While the family is long gone, the place seemed a bit haunted to me - perhaps it was just the way things were laid out as if the entire family had just stepped out for a sail aboard the "Marjorie" and would return any minute.



After wandering around the rooms inside -- feeling slightly ill at ease staring at beds where people were at their most intimate, most vulnerable, we moved outside.

The gardens were lovely -- a giant sequoia reported to be the tallest tree in New England -- and the pleasure of strolling along the path down by the water was equalled only by the opportunity to sit and relax at one end of the flower garden sipping ice water. It was hard to imagine anything better to do on such a beautiful Sunday afternoon.







We were a bit curious about the skywriting over the bay, though.



But, like the old Jimmy Durante song, even though we really wanted to stay we really had to go and go we did. It was still early so we thought why not a trip to Westport Rivers to sip a little sparkling wine?

And off we went. With Susie navigating we soon found ourselves in the wilds of Massachusetts heading in the direction of Horseneck Beach. We found the entrain to the vineyard -- it wasn't anything like we remembered when we were firs there with Dick and dorothy so many years ago. We parked and walked inside the tasting room gazing across the vineyards in the distance. Impressive, I thought. We quickly found a spot at the bar and opted for the tasting menu (6 sips for 8 bucks -- steep we thought.). Anyway, the location was nice, the staff friendly and the wines as overpriced as they were mediocre. ($45 for a bottle of Massachusetts sparkling wine!?)

After sipping our six wines (all of which suffered from a serious overabundance of yeast) we ambled upstairs to the art gallery, where we were confronted with incredibly overpriced artwork. Colorful to be sure but $625 for some lively smears of oil. I don't think so.

After returning to the car we found our way back to Route 88 and headed due north to I-195 and then west to Providence, and home.

It had been a grand day, good to be alive, savoring the cool breezes, nice people and tasty food.

Peoplewatching while waiting for whales

While waiting for the whales to make an appearance this past Sunday, I took the opportunity to photograph some incredible faces scanning the horizon looking for tell-tale whale sign -- they may not have been as colorful as the characters that seemed to haunt Melville's imagination but they were interesting nonetheless.























Chihuly in the Japanese Garden

We returned to Meijer Gardens recently to finish off our tour of the Chihuly sculptures, this time focusing on the Japanese Garden. new take...